Monday, March 13, 2017

Dong Thap province - Tram Chim national park - the 1st Ramsar site in Mekong delta

Contents
A/ Overview, geography and Map
B/ Tram Chim national park -  the 1st Ramsar site in Mekong delta
C/ Sa Dec flower village and The house of "The Lover" 
D/ Sa Dec to Cao Lanh city by public bus  
E/ Foodie
F/ March - The beginning of lotus season! 
       
                       


A/ Overview, geography and Map
Overview
Among 13 provinces and city of Mekong delta, Dong Thap is the most famous one about lotus flower. Coming to Dong Thap, Vietnamese tourists love taking rowing boats on lotus fields and enjoy lotus rice, lotus tea, lotus jam... Lotus is the symbol of this province.


For bird watching's lovers, the Tram Chim national park of Dong Thap is a must-see.  The 7,313 ha park provides an ideal habitat for 231 species of bird, including 32 rare and precious species, especially the red-head cranes. Youre not a bird lover? Seating on a motorised boat on waterways of the park, you will see yourself relaxed and forget the daily life's worries as great nature is everywhere with lotus, waterlily flowers blooming, water buffalos eating on vast green eleocharis fields, the cajuput trees see their sadows on waterways, the deep deep blue sky...  
And in the beginning of 2012, Tram Chim national park has been recognized by Ramsar Convention as the 2000th Ramsar site of Wetlands of International Importance in the world.


When traditional Vietnam new year comes, the Sa Dec district of Dong Thap enters the busiest season of the year. More than 3000 people earn living by planting and selling many kind of flowers, make it become one of two most famous flower villages of Mekong delta. 


Sa Dec is aslo the town seeing the famous love story of French writer Marguerite Duras and Mr Huynh Thuy Le, a rich man of Sa Dec. Her novel "The Lover" (L'amant) was translated into more than 40 languages and helped her win  the Goncourt prize in 1984. A film version of The Lover , produced by Claude Berri, was released to great success in 1992. Coming to Sa Dec, you have chance to see The House of The Lover and know more about their love story.


If Mekong delta is the rice basket of Vietnam, Dong Thap is one of the main provinces of the delta produces rice.


The province is also famous for its mangos and oranges. And the people are really friendly. Welcome all of you to Dong Thap, a quiet province rarely sees foreign tourists.

                                              Tram Chim national park. Pic: vietnamguidebook

                                             Tram Chim national park. Pic: vietnamguidebook

 Tram Chim national park. Pic: vietnamguidebook

White lotuses. Tram Chim national park. Pic: vietnamguidebook

                                            Motorised boat in the park. Pic: vietnamguidebook

                                                          Forget himself. Pic: vietnamguidebook

                                             Tram Chim national park. Pic: vietnamguidebook

                                              Tram Chim national park. Pic: vietnamguidebook

                                             Tram Chim national park. Pic: vietnamguidebook

                                             Tram Chim national park. Photo: vietnamguidebook

                                          Tram Chim national park. Retake: vietnamguidebook

                                                                  Pic: dongthap.gov.vn

                                                                Pic: dongthap.gov.vn

Sa Dec flower village. Pic: Voice of Vietnam

                                                Sa Dec flower village. Pic: Tuoi Tre newspaper


Geography
Dong Thap province covers an area of 3,238 square km with 9 districts, two main towns (Sa Dec and Hong Ngu) and one capital city (Cao Lanh) 


To the North, it borders Long An province. To the South, its borders An Giang province and Can Tho city. To the East, it borders Vinh Long and Tien Giang provinces. To the Northwest, its borders Prey Veng province of Cambodia (nearly 50 km, with four border check points: Thong Binh, Dinh Ba, My Can, Thuong Phuoc). Its possible to get to Phnom Penh capital of Cambodia via Dinh Ba check point.


The Cao Lanh capital city of Dong Thap province is 162km from Sai Gon. There are many daily buses running between theses cities, taking about 3 to 4 hours driving.


The Sa Dec town is about 147 km from Sai Gon.


The Mekong river is border between Sa Dec town and Cao Lanh city. You have to take a ferry to cross the river as there is no bridge. The center of Sa Dec is about 27 km from the center of Cao lanh city.


Map
For a clear map, please see the link below
http://dongthap.gov.vn/wps/portal/v2/chinhquyen/bandohanhchinh



                                                          Pic: jayavarmancruise

                                                                   Pic: wikipedia.org






B/ Tram Chim national park -  the 1st Ramsar site in Mekong delta
Highlights:
·     Tram Chim National Park is one of the last natural wetlands of the once vast plain of reeds in Dong Thap province of Mekong delta
·      
      The 7,313 ha park provides an ideal habitat for 231 species of bird, including 32 rare and precious species, especially the red-head cranes and 130 species of fish 
·     
      The park includes an ecotourism area with a forest of cajuput, covering nearly 3,000 ha which is considered the “lung” of the Dong Thap region

·     Coming to Tram Chim in dry season from December to May, visitors have chance to see birds flying on the vast mangrove fields including cranes 1.5m high weighting at 10-15kg each, purple herons with 1m span, and long-neck geese.
 In the beginning of 2012, Tram Chim has been recognized by Ramsar Convention as the 2000th Ramsar site of Wetlands of International Importance in the world.


What  I enjoyed
We took a public bus from Cao Lanh city to Thanh Binh intersection on a sunny beautiful day of 16th April 2012. The bus was old and opened all the windows as there was no A/C. The road was narrow and there was not much to see at both sides. As the bus arrived in Thanh Binh, We had 20 minutes drinking iced milk coffee and waited for another bus from Thanh Binh to Tram Chim national park.

The public bus from Thanh Binh to Tram Chim runned along the vast water rice fields. Its the dry season and rice fields were in grey colour with shimmering water. Here and there, many local men were in small natural creeks catching fishes. Some local women were drying chilies on the roadsides, made it looked like a red chili fields. On the open air bus, there were many lovely children. They looked at us like the strangers and showed the eager faces when We took their photos!

The bus arrived in the other side of  Tram Chim national park's office. There was standing a big welcome board showing the green vast park and thousands of bird and stork.

Paid 800,000 VND at the park's office for renting a motorised boat for a round trip 25km to and from the center of the park. As the boat just moved on the brown waterways, We  immediately felt like We were  eager children to be in the arms of the "mother nature" because of all of the impressive pictures of green cajuput trees, white and pink lotuses, vast eleocharis fields and the music-like noise of birds as well as the deeply blue blue sky with white clouds saw their shadows in the waterways. 

About 15 minutes driving from the office, We saw many music notes dancing on the waterways - yeah! They were the birds flying across the waterway with their shadows in water. Our cameras worked and burned the film but Canon G12 didnt work well to catch the best.

Then the boat moved to a smaller canal. The water was bold brown and both sides of canal there were many tall cajuput trees. Here, once again, our cameras worked continuously as hundreds of birds flew out like the bees. The birds were really around us in the beautiful sky!

And We couldnt believe that in this park We also saw a lot of buffalos bathing in the canal. As the boat moved really fast, We felt that our boat runned on the back of a water buffalo. Just hundreds meters away, looking back, all buffalos ate peacefully on the green vast eleocharis fields. They did forget the "suprising feeling" as the movable crazy composite boat passed by them.

At last, the boat arrived in the center of the park after a 45-minute drive. Here, there was an observation post where We had an overlook the green park with an area of nearly 7,313 ha. Far away, near the pink lotus fields, standing hundred of white storks  and the big zigzaged canals I just passed through now looked really like small lines. 
Had a quick lunch and talk with the friendly rangers as We had to go back to Sai Gon. Surely, We will go back to Tram Chim someday to spend one night in the center of the park. We really want to wake up with the sounds of birds and storks and see them fly to and back in the early morning and late afternoon. That will be the great experience.

By the way, lunch with many kinds of fish and lotus leaves, water lilies, was excellent! We really enjoyed so much!

18km before Tram Chim park, We saw the "red chilies fields"
                                                     Drying chilies. Pic:vietnamguidebook


                                                      Drying chilies. Pic: vietnamguidebook


The rice fields were full of water and the ducks looked for food (fishes, oysters, small crabs...)

                                                                Pics: vietnamguidebook

Local people live on stilt houses
                                                                   Pic: vietnamguidebook 

We were very happy to play with the kids


Arrived in the park. From a deep deep blue sky day at boat station, We started our journey

Then our boat entered the world of park

We passed by the green bamboos and blue sky

Who draw the sky? 

The waterway was getting wider 

And you can see clearly how the boat was
                                                    

My friends:" Sure, I will come back" 

 How happy my friends were
                                                                Pics: vietnamguidebook



"Hey men, pink lotus field!!!"
Pic: vietnamguidebook 

 Pic: vietnamguidebook

Pics: vietnamguidebook 

"And what, what?" Yes, white lotus field

After that the birds flew near the face of water. "Natural music notes"

Looked to the sky, a lonely bird

Do you see the happy couple?



And the birds' friends coming out


We entered smaller canal and my god, birds flew out like the bees!

Pic: vietnamguidebook 

Pic: vietnamguidebook 

Pic: vietnamguidebook 
                                                                   Pic: vietnamguidebook

Here and there, the storks flew out as they heard the noise of engine
                                                                 Pic: vietnamguidebook

Some storks stood on the trees
                                                                    Pic: vietnamguidebook



 
Pics of red headed cranes: dongthap.gov.vn

Video (Vietnamguidebook)
Finally We arrived in the center of the park which was 13km from the park's office. There stood a 16m high observation post


Not far from observation post  was a monkey bridge. You dare to pass through?

During floating season you can stay in this house with rangers
 Pic: vietnamguidebook 

My fat friend lied down on hammock
 Pic: vietnamguidebook 

Brown canal, pink lotus and bamboo and blue sky. Our eyes were full of colours
Pic: vietnamguidebook 

The ranger took my friend to lake to pluck water lilies. We prepared our "forest lunch"
Pic: vietnamguidebook 


"Sac" fishes were always available in canals
 Pic: vietnamguidebook 




 Pics: vietnamguidebook
BBQ mud fish
 Pic: vietnamguidebook 

My Japanese friend ate 4 bowls of steam rice!!!
                                                     


Best time to visit
For bird lovers, December to May is the best time to visit as you will have chance to see red headed cranes. Of course, you may have to spend time here.


The floating season starting from mid August to beginning of November sees more birds and storks as water comes in with more fishes and the park is like a water field with bold green cajuput forest, lovely pink lotuses and yellow "Dien dien" flowers...

We were in the park two times in April. Eventhough April is the hottest month of the year, but when We were on the boat in the park, its was so cool!

The park opens everyday


Entrance fee and rent motorised boat fee
Good news! Free admission

A round trip with motorised boat for 25km charges 800,000VND (About 40USD). The boat for maximum 12 pax. 


You can go farer. Just pay more for the boat.

How to get there 
Tram Chim national park is in Tam Nong district of Dong Thap province. Its about 40km from Cao Lanh capital city of Dong Thap.
Cao Lanh city is 162km from Sai Gon city.

From Sai Gon, there are many daily buses to Cao Lanh city. The bus takes about 3 to 4 hours

You will get off at Cao Lanh bus station. From here, there are many public buses taking nearly 50 minutes (about 22 km) to Thanh Binh intersection (Vietnamese: Nga ba Thanh Binh). 

30 minutes has 1 public bus. 
First bus start at about 6am. Last bus start at about 6pm

At Thanh Binh intersection, there are many buses to Tam Nong district, passing Tram Chim national park (18km)

I took Phuong Trang express bus for Sai Gon - Cao Lanh - Sai Gon
   In Sai Gon:  Booking and getting on the bus at ticket booth number 31 at  Mien Tay bus station 
                      Address: 395 Kinh Dương Vương street, Binh Tan district.
                      Tel:
08 38 309 309

                      Depart at: 6:30; 7:10; 9:10; 11:10; 12:10; 13:10; 15:10; 16:10; 17:30; 19:30

   In Dong Thap: 17 - 19 Vo Thi Sau street, ward 2. Cao Lanh city
                          Tel: (067) 3876 850
                           Depart at: 2:00; 3:00; 4:00; 6:00; 8:00; 10:00; 12:00; 14:00; 16:00; 18:00

  Bus fare: 90,000VND/pax/way

  Kind of bus: Modern Huyndai 45 seat

  Rest stop: Stop on the half way at Satra rest stop. The rest stop serves as a restaurant and coffe shop

  Travel time: 3 hours 15 minutes one way

Phuong Trang express bus Sai Gon - Cao Lanh. Pic: vietnamguidebook 


 Public bus Cao Lanh city - Thanh Binh intersection
                                                 


                                                            Pic: vietnamguidebook         


Thanh Binh intersection in front of Thanh Binh market

                                        
                                            Welcome to Tram Chim national park

Contact
Tram Chim national park (Vườn Quốc Gia Tràm Chim)
Address: Tam Nong district, Dong Thap province
Tel: (067) 3827 436
Email: tramchimtamnong@yahoo.com.vn

Where to stay
The park offer 5 basic rooms at office. Room rate starts at 10USD/night with A/C.

During floating season, you can stay in the center of the park with rangers. Its really basic accommodation. You will sleep on the hard wooden floor of stilt house. Shared bathroom. There is no electricity too. But all you have is nature!!! Thats great.


Should made booking in advance. Tel: (067) 3827 436. Fax: 067 3827 081. Email: tramchimtamnong@yahoo.com.vn


Exit to Cambodia
In front of Tram Chim national park's office, there are daily public buses to Sa Rai town (40km). From Sa Rai town, you will take another public bus to Dinh Ba check point (About 20km). The other side is Bontia Chak Cray check point of Prey Veng province of Cambodia.

I was just at the border. Accoding to local people, there is only motorbike taxi taking you to Phnom Penh. 




C/ Sa Dec flower village and the house of The Lover
Sa Dec flower village
The Sa Dec flower village, especially in its Tan Quy Dong ward, has been famous for a hundred years. It covers an area of more than 250ha with about 2,000 families earning living by planting  more than 1,000 kinds of flowers and sell them to Sai Gon, Da Lat city, the North of Vietnam and export to Cambodia, Laos, China...


About 20 days before traditional Vietnamese new year ( Usually in beginning of February), coming to Sa Dec, you will walk into the kingdom of colours. Along the national highway 80 cutting through the Sa Dec and along Sa Dec riverside, flowers are blooming everywhere. And local people said spring firstly comes into Sa Dec!


What is the special of Sa Dec flower village? Thats the way of planting!
Most of the land in Sa Dec as well as Dong Thap province is full of water during the floating season (Mid August to November). This is also the time, farmer has to plant the flowers for new year. So there is one method/solution: flowers are planting on baskets and placing high on water by the wooden/bamboo pole networks.

The women with conical hats on rowing boats along the narrow waterways inside the wooden pole networks with  flowers are the sympol of Sa Dec!

Attention! Visitors should come to Sa Dec some before 20 days of Vietnam new year. Eventhough the flowers are planting around the year, but its a little boring to come to Sa Dec at different times as there are not many flowers and they are not in the best conditions. (From my point of view)

                                         Pic:Tran Van Tuan photoghapher (Dat Mui newspaper)


                                                               Pic: SGGP newspaper


                                                              Pic: Voice of Vietnam


                                                                 Pic: Voice of Vietnam

                                                                     Pic: Voice of Vietnam

                                                                  Pic: Voice of Vietnam


                                                                  Pic: cayxanhsadec web


                                                                    Pic: Voice of Vietnam

Pic: cayxanhsadec web


The house of The Lover (L'amant)
The house
The ancient house of  The Lover is at 255A, Nguyen Hue street, ward 2, Sa Dec town. In front of the house is Sa Dec river and busy colourful Sa Dec market from early morning till the sun goes down.

The owner of the house was Mr Huynh Thuan, a very rich Vietnmese Chinese (Fujian) in Sa Dec. The house was built in the year of 1895 and restored in the year of 1917.

From the outside, it looks like the French villa. The main door is of Mekong delta traditional one. Inside design is of Chinese. Thats great combination making it special and unique. 
Building the house followed Chinese geomancy (Feng shui) which believed to bring good wealth, happiness to the owner. Stand on the middle of the floor, you will feel its a little bit deep-set. Its explained as money/wealth will come into here and stay with the owner.

Beautiful images of dragon, phoenix, unicorn and bat are carved on wooden columns, doors...They are believed to bring happiness, luck, wealth to the owner and his family too.

The house at present is managed by Dong Thap tourist company. Most visitors are Vietnamese, French and Chinese.  There are two rooms available for guest staying. They are nice but basic, no A/C, no fan. Bathroom is outside. USD/room with breakfast and one main meal (lunch or dinner)

Love story
On the ferry crossing Mekong river, Mr Huynh Thuy Le, the 27-year old son of Mr Huynh Thuan, met and fell in love with  famous French writer Marguerite Duras. The 15-year old beautiful French girl came to stay with Le in a rent room in Sai Gon city.


They were happy together for 1.5 years. Le asked his father to get married with Duras. But there were some reasons that made them stayed in diffenrent continent: Huynh family was so rich and Duras was really poor; getting married with a Westerner was something strange in the society at that time; Mr Huynh Thuan had choosen a wife for Le and Le had to follow...


Le got married with a rich girl in My Tho city of Mekong delta. Duras was onboard back to France. The last time in Vietnam, at the pier, Duras saw Le standing far away.


Years passed by quickly like the wind. Le had 5 children and Duras also experineced some marriage lives. In 1971, Le was in France. "I love you forever, Duras" Le said. And the Lover novel was born.

Le passed away in 1972. And Sa Dec was known as The Land of The Lover.


How to get to Sa Dec by bus
Phuong Trang express bus operator offer many daily buses to Sa Dec


In Sai Gon
Office: For booking ticket; get on bus
             328A Le Hong Phong, ward 1, district 10.
             Tel: (08) 38. 309 309 - Fax: (08).38 333 467

Ticket booth number 31 at 
Mien Tay bus station, Sai Gon:   For booking ticket; get on bus
             395 Kinh Dương Vương street, Binh Tan district.
             Tel:
08 38 309 309

Depart at: 7:00; 8:30; 10:00; 11:30; 16:30; 18:00;19:30 
Bus fare: 85,000VND
Kind of bus: modern 33 seating bus 


3.5 hour driving

In Sa Dec
149/8 Khóm Hoa Khanh commune, ward 2, Sa Đec town
Tel: 0673.774993


Depart at: 2:30; 4:00; 7:30; 11:00; 12:30; 14:00; 15:30; 19:00
Bus fare: 85,000VND
Kind of bus: modern 33 seating bus 

3.5 hour driving

Where to stay in Sa Dec

D/ Sa Dec to Cao Lanh city by public bus and ferry
As you can see, Sa Dec is 27km from Cao Lanh city, across the Mekong river.
A visit to Dong Thap will be perfect with 2 days in Cao Lanh (for Tram Chim national park) and Sa Dec flower village

You have to take two public buses and one ferry
Get on the bus Sa Dec - Cao Lanh ferry station in front of Sa Dec market, 30 minutes one bus, starts at 5:30AM
Take ferry to cross Mekong river (free tickfet for walker)
Arrive in Cao Lanh ferry station, take public bus to the center of the city




D/ Foodie
Sa Dec pork noodle soup is one of three most famous noodle soups in Mekong delta (two others: My Tho noodle soup; Nam vang noodle soup)

                                                                    Pic: vaas.org.vn



Lotus rice: "brown" rice cooked with lotus seeds and placed in lotus leave

                                                             Pic: vietnamguidebook




Fried mud fish eat with young lotus leave, cucumber, tomato and sweet sour spicy tamarind sauce

 

 
Pics: vietnamguidebook 


The Cao Lanh mango is the choice of Vietnamese mango eat lover. Its is about 30,000VND/kg. The season is in Februray. Out of season, its 40,000VND/kg


Boiled lotus seed
                                                         Pic: vietnamguidebook

 





F/ March - The beginning of lotus season in Dong Thap province!
(Haven't been in Dong Sen Thap Muoi. Will go soon!)

Pictures: Dong Sen Thap Muoi facebook
Address: My Hoa ward, Thap Muoi district, Dong Thap province
Email: info@dongsenthapmuoi.com
Website: dongsenthapmuoi.com
Tel: 0939 688 283





 









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