Mu Cang Chai terraced rice fields

Contents
A/ Overview 
    Yen Bai city and Mu Cang Chai town
    Geographic location and Map

B/ Mu Cang Chai terraced rice fields

C/ Where to stay

D/ Eating

E/ Getting there 

F/ Vietwings Hanoi  1st time paragliding at Tu Le valley, Yen Bai, Vietnam
     
     Essential Vietnamese Phrases - 实用中文- 给旅行者的越南会话 





A/ Overview
If you a nature and terraced rice fields lover,  you will not want to miss Mu Cang Chai district of Yen Bai province.

A remote and "hidden" world so far, Mu Cang Chai has just seen some Vietnamese tourists. And as I know, Its not on the map of almost any guidebook written by the West too.

While Sapa has been commercialised, Mu Cang Chai is still a raw pearl. If ethnic minority children in Sapa and the surrounding ask you to buy something for them, the local ethnic minority people in Mu Cang Chai give you free welcoming smiles. 

Mu Cang Chai and the sorrounding also have some fascinating colourful markets.

Note: If you look for a comfortable place with great entertainment, then Mu Cang Chai is not your destination. The town goes to sleep quite early, say, about 7:00PM

          From Mu Cang Chai town, there are daily morning buses to Sapa  

         

Yen Bai city and Mu Cang Chai town
Yen Bai city of Yen Bai province is 180km from Hanoi. This peaceful city has no much to see. In fact its just a transit point for tourists going to Mu Cang Chai town of Mu Cang Chai district.

The market in Yen Bai city sell a lot of Mong wild apple (Tao meo). It gives sour/sweet taste and is used to make famous wine called "Ruou tao meo" (Also popular in Sapa)

Mu Cang Chai town of Mu Cang Chai district is 183km from Yen Bai city

Tao meo

                                                        Photo credit: vietnamguidebook


  Geographic location and Map
  Yen Bai province share borders with: Tuyen Quang and Phu Tho provinces in the East; Lai Chau and Lao Cai provinces in the West; Ha Giang province in the North; Son La province in the South

                                                                  Pic: http://atl.edu.net.vn/

B/ Mu Cang Chai terraced rice fields

Located 180 kilometers from Yen Bai city, Mu Cang Chai is situated at an altitude of 1,000 meters above sea level. 

The average temperature around the year is about 18oC. Early morning is quite cold and the roads are covered by thick mist. Seating on the bus from Yen Bai city to Mu Cang Chai, I felt that I moved on the white clouds, especially when the bus passed by Khau Pha pass.

 Terraced rice fields are visible from virtually everywhere in Mu Cang Chai as they expand over 2,200ha, including 500ha in Che Cu Nha, La Pan Tan and De Xu Phinh communes. The terraced rice fields in these communes were recognized as a national heritage site in 2007.

In September or beginning of October, the mountains in Che Cu Nha, La Pan Tan and De Xu Phing are mostly covered by golden waves, the terraced rice fields, making Mu Cang Chai a great destination for autumn lovers.

In addition to terraced fields, Mu Cang Chai was blessed with naturally beautiful flora and fauna: 788 fauna species, of which 267 are used for herbal medicines, 241 floras including 54 animals, 132 birds, 26 reptiles and many of them are listed in the Red Book.

Useful information: Stay in Mu Cang Chai town. Rent a motorbike and start your journey. From the center of the town to Che Cu Nha, De Xu Phinh, La Pan Tan is just about 21km. 

                                 Gear motorbike: 100,000VND/day. Sometimes you have to deposit 2,000,000VND

Out of Yen Bai city, about 45 minutes, the bus passed by the golden rice fields of Thai people

 

Photo credit: vietnamguidebook

                                
Khau Pha pass

Terraced rice fields in middle of September, 2012 in Mu Cang Chai

Photo credit: Vietnamguidebook

Mu Cang Chai in May

                                                       Photo credit: Hachi8 (www.phuot.vn)


C/ Where to stay
* Yen Bai city
Stay in front of the Yen Bai bus station so that you can get on the local bus for a morning drive to Mu Cang Chai town

With 150,000VND, you will have a nice big room with air-con, hot shower and Tivi.

Besides the bus station area, you can stay in the center of the city or train station area

Bus station area

1/ (My pick) Phuong Thuy guesthouse

    Address: 119 Hoang Hoa Tham street (some steps to bus station)

    Tel: 0983 203 690 - 01672 492 129

    Room rate: 150,000VND up

    Overview: A large nice guesthouse with big clean room, air-con, hot shower, Tivi and friendly

    Pictures:

 

Photo credit: vietnamguidebook

2/ Thanh Vu guesthouse

    Address: 121 Hoang Hoa Tham street (opposite bus station)

    Tel: 0934 480 044

    Room rate: 150,000VND

    Overview: A very old guesthouse with basic room, air-con, Tivi. The owner is very friendly. I stayed here for one night.

   Minus: the thin and high staircase

    Pictures:

 

Photo credit: Vietnamguidebook

Those who look for a mid-range hotel should go to the center of Ha Giang city
    (My pick) Hong Nhung hotel

    Address: Ngo Si Lien street, Dong Tam ward, Yen Bai city

    Tel: 0293 850 352 - 0293 852 054 - 0919 956 172
     Fax: 0293 858 668

    Room rate: 400,000VND up (20USD with breakfast)

    Overview: A local 3-star hotel with nice room, air-con, Tivi, fridge, lift, friendly

    Pictures:

 

                                                          Photo credit: vietnamguidebook

Train station: about 2km from bus station

 The train from Hanoi arrive here in mid-night. Local people said its not really safe to walk around. So pay attention.

1/ (My pick) Huu Nghi hotel

    Address: Opposite train station

    Room rate: 200,000VND up

    Overview: Large hotel, basic clean room with air-con, hot shower, fridge, Tivi, wifi

    Pictures:

                                                           Photo credit: vietnamguidebook


2/ Viet Hung guesthouse

    Address: 257 Tran Hung Dao street, Hong Ha ward, Yen Bai city (Some stepts to train station)

    Tel: 0293 862 568 - 0912 852 297

    Room rate: 200,000VND

    Overview: Basic clean room with air-con, fan, Tivi

    Pictures:

 

Photo credit: vietnamguidebook

* Mu Cang Chai town
Mu Cang Chai rarely has visitors. Tourists just come here in September when the terraced rice fields become golden waves. Thats the reason there are just very few basic guesthouses/hotels here.

With 150,000VND up you can have a private room with hot shower, Tivi (Vietnamese channels only)

Mu Cang Chai is cool around the year. There's no need to have air-con

1/ (My stay)Son Ca guesthouse

    Address: Mu Cang Chai town (60m from the main road of the town)

    Tel: 029 3878 185 - 0988 981 675

    Room rate: 120,000VND (shared bathroom) - 200,000VND (private bathroom)

    Overview: A stilt house with clean nice rooms, friendly owner

    Pictures: 

 

200,000VND room

120,000VND room

                                                               Pics: vietnamguidebook

2/ Suoi Mo hotel

    Address: Mu Cang Chai town (50m from the main road of the town)

    Tel: 0293 878 643

  

    Room rate: 250,000VND up

    Overview:  A large hotel with basic big nice rooms, hot shower, Tivi

    Pictures:

                                                            Photo credit: vietnamguidebook

3/ (My pick) Post office guesthouse (Nha nghi Buu dien)

    Address: On the main road of Mu Cang Chai town (about 350m from Suoi Mo hotel)

    Tel: 0293 560 345 - 0293 504 004

    Room rate: 150,000VND

    Overview: Basic clean room with hot shower, Tivi, big bathroom, Internet (4000VND/hour)

    Pictures: 

                                                            Photo credit: vietnamguidebook

D/ Eating
I love mountain chicken of Mu Cang Chai town. Eating with steam rice, chilli salt, lemon and bamboo sprout

Photo credit: vietnamguidebook

E/ Getting there
 * Hanoi - Yen Bai city: 
Distance: 180km (5 - 6 hours)
Bus fare: 110,000VND
Hanoi bus stations: Giap Bat, My Dinh
 

There are many daily buses from Giap Bat and My Dinh bus stations to Yen Bai city. Ask the driver to let you get off at Yen Bai bus station (Ben xe khach Yen Bai). There are many hotels, guesthouses here and you can get the early bus to Mu Cang Chai.


 VIP Hai Phuong
Among the bus operators for the route of Hanoi -Yen Bai city, VIP Hai Phuong is the best one now. They offer 45-seat buses with air-con and good service. 
Departure from My Dinh: 9:15AM - 5:00PM (Tel: 0915 274 679)
Departure from Giap Bat: 8:30AM (Tel: 0915 274 678) 
Hai Phuong will stop in a local restaurant for lunch. My big lunch was just 50,000VND

                                                            Photo credit: vietnamguidebook

Note: you can take train from Hanoi to Yen Bai city too. The trains usually depart at night (7:40PM, 8:35PM, 9:10PM, 9:50PM...) and arrive in Yen Bai train station in early morning (4 - 5 hours)

Train schedule

                                                           Photo credit: vietnamguidebook

  
* Yen Bai city - Mu Cang Chai town
Wake up early, say, about 4:30AM as you need to have breakfast and get on a small local bus at 5:30AM to Mu Cang Chai town. the bus will not stop for breakfast. 

Yen Bai city to Mu Cang Chai will pass by many tea plantations and the beautiful impressive Khau Pha pass.
Bus fare: 100,000VND
Departure: in front of Yen Bai bus station 
Distance: 183km (6 - 7 hours)
Tel: 0984 543 878 - 0986 466 839 (one of the local buses)

Yen Bai bus station

Bus to Mu Cang Chai

Photo credit: vietnamguidebook

* Mu Cang Chai town - Lai Cai province - Sapa (Lao Cai province)

Every morning about 7:00AM, there are some buses leaving in the center of Mu Cang Chai town to Lai Chau province and Sapa town of Lao cai province

Most of the buses are in yellow coclour.

Departure at 7:00AM. Arrive in Sapa about 1:00PM

                                                               Photo credit: vietnamguidebook

  * Ha Noi - Mu Cang Chai

Hung Thanh bus operator (Please note that I haven't used its service yet)
- Tel: 0974 00 4444
- Bus fare: 260,000VND (about 13USD)
- Daily departure:
   From My Dinh bus station of Hanoi city at 9:30PM (Arrive in Mu Cang Chai at about 3:30AM) 
  
   From Mu Cang Chai at 10:30PM (Arrive in Hanoi's My Dinh bus station at about 5:30AM)

- Website: http://hungthanhtravel.vn/store/hanoi-lai-chau.d-125.aspx?lang=en


  F/ Vietwings Hanoi  1st time paragliding at Tu Le valley, Yen Bai, Vietnam
 

Essential Vietnamese Phrases - 实用中文- 给旅行者的越南会话