Content includes:
1/ Overview of Ao dai, VietNamese women traditional dresses (www.womanmuseum.net)
2/ Historical Vietnam ‘ao dai’ highlighted at ongoing exhibit
3/ Ao dai should remain students’ ceremonial costumes: discussion
3/ Ao dai should remain students’ ceremonial costumes: discussion
4/ The world on Vietnamese ao dai
5/ Collection
5/ Collection
Overview of Ao dai, VietNamese women traditional dresses
During the development process, traditional dress (Ao Dai) has become a traditional costume full of national cultural colour. Throughout time, via many improvement and renovation, the Vietnamese Ao Dai nowadays has highly aesthetic value. Ao Dai actually reflects traditional beauty, contains national soul, is both charming and attractive, and it increases the beauty of Vietnamese women,
According to “Phủ Biên Tạp Lục” written by Lê Quí Đôn, Vietnamese Ao Dai was born under the royal regime of Lord Nguyễ Phúc Khoát (1739 - 1765), with harmonious colours of both Southern and Northern regions , the dress style with stand-up collar, long sleeves, loose or close fitting sleeve opening, depending on use purpose without side slits.
Under King Gia Long (1762 - 1820), Ao Dai was considered as main national costumes: men, women, old persons or children, upper class, middle class or common people… wore long dresses Women’s dress with two loose laps, buttons undone, sometimes tied together was called lap-tied dress. Whereas the Southern women wore five lap traditional dresses without revealing their necks, others wore three lap traditional dresses with buttoned cuffs and inside collars higher than outside ones. Women used to wear thin underdresses to keep their hankerchiefs and money.
In 1932 Cat Tuong and Le Pho artists designed an innovated Ao Dai called Le Mur, combining the gentleness of four flap traditional dress with soft charming of European dresses, that matched with Vietnamese women : without side slits, long bodice, curved laps, with European styled buttons, detachable at sleeve opening and some foreign details such as laces, veils...
Throughout time, Vietnamese Ao Dai is more and more perfect to match with space, body features and climate conditions.
In 1950s and 1960s, Ao Dai was slightly improved with loose lap, waistline, body fitting in the front and back, reaching to the floor, high collar with stiffy starch, close fitting sleeves.
Under Ngo Dinh Diem regime, in 1958 appeared Tran Le Xuan styled Ao Dai with collarless design, back exposure with heart/circle or square shape, tied with zipper, sometimes Ao Dai was designed without sleeves and short laps.
After 1968, tunics (mini styled Ao Dai ) appeared with close fitting lap, short flap down to the knee only, raglan sleeves not connecting with the elbows as previously. Loose-fitting dress, without waistline, but still body fitting, low collar. Wide-legged trousers with diameter up to 60 cm.
From 1975 to 1990s , there were not many changes in Ao Dai style, mainly chnages in materials or brocades. At that time women liked to wear trousers and dresses with the same colour.
In the recent years designers have made a lot of modifications in Ao Dai style based on women’s tastes , however, it still keeps its own features. Thus, Ao Dai with its traditional shape is inherited generations after generations and becomes national costume for all women during festivals, weddings, at school or at work.
A collection of Vietnamese Ao Dai by the Southern Women Museum with 65 items will introduce the most general features of Ao Dai and its changing process throughout periods
According to “Phủ Biên Tạp Lục” written by Lê Quí Đôn, Vietnamese Ao Dai was born under the royal regime of Lord Nguyễ Phúc Khoát (1739 - 1765), with harmonious colours of both Southern and Northern regions , the dress style with stand-up collar, long sleeves, loose or close fitting sleeve opening, depending on use purpose without side slits.
Under King Gia Long (1762 - 1820), Ao Dai was considered as main national costumes: men, women, old persons or children, upper class, middle class or common people… wore long dresses Women’s dress with two loose laps, buttons undone, sometimes tied together was called lap-tied dress. Whereas the Southern women wore five lap traditional dresses without revealing their necks, others wore three lap traditional dresses with buttoned cuffs and inside collars higher than outside ones. Women used to wear thin underdresses to keep their hankerchiefs and money.
In 1932 Cat Tuong and Le Pho artists designed an innovated Ao Dai called Le Mur, combining the gentleness of four flap traditional dress with soft charming of European dresses, that matched with Vietnamese women : without side slits, long bodice, curved laps, with European styled buttons, detachable at sleeve opening and some foreign details such as laces, veils...
Throughout time, Vietnamese Ao Dai is more and more perfect to match with space, body features and climate conditions.
In 1950s and 1960s, Ao Dai was slightly improved with loose lap, waistline, body fitting in the front and back, reaching to the floor, high collar with stiffy starch, close fitting sleeves.
Under Ngo Dinh Diem regime, in 1958 appeared Tran Le Xuan styled Ao Dai with collarless design, back exposure with heart/circle or square shape, tied with zipper, sometimes Ao Dai was designed without sleeves and short laps.
After 1968, tunics (mini styled Ao Dai ) appeared with close fitting lap, short flap down to the knee only, raglan sleeves not connecting with the elbows as previously. Loose-fitting dress, without waistline, but still body fitting, low collar. Wide-legged trousers with diameter up to 60 cm.
From 1975 to 1990s , there were not many changes in Ao Dai style, mainly chnages in materials or brocades. At that time women liked to wear trousers and dresses with the same colour.
In the recent years designers have made a lot of modifications in Ao Dai style based on women’s tastes , however, it still keeps its own features. Thus, Ao Dai with its traditional shape is inherited generations after generations and becomes national costume for all women during festivals, weddings, at school or at work.
A collection of Vietnamese Ao Dai by the Southern Women Museum with 65 items will introduce the most general features of Ao Dai and its changing process throughout periods
An exhibit, “Vietnamese women’s ao dai during warring years”, which showcases “ao dai” (traditional long gown) in a variety of styles and spanning historical periods, is running in Ho Chi Minh City from now until Dec 17.
The exhibit, going on at HCMC War Remnant Museum, 28 Vo Van Tan, district 3, features the traditional gowns donned by southern Vietnamese women and female personalities in their daily lives and at important events.
The exhibited collection of 30 artifacts, 90 photos and 60 stories depicts the “ao dai” as an elegant, demure costume which accentuates women’s grace as well as highlights its significant role in their daily lives, work and revolutionary activities.
The exhibit is jointly put on by the museum, HCMC Cultural Heritage Association and famed “ao dai” designer Si Hoang.
Ao dai should remain students’ ceremonial costumes: discussion
A discussion session themed “Ao dai” (traditional long gown) held by Tuoi Tre on July 6 once more reiterated that ao daishould remain female high school students’ ceremonial costumes, not daily uniforms.
According to Tran Thi Kim Thanh, deputy head of the Ho Chi Minh City Department of Education and Training, prior to 2009, most high schools and even a number of secondary schools citywide chose white ao dai as their female students’ uniforms.
Following the circular on students’ ceremonial costumes and school uniforms issued by the Ministry of Education and Training in 2009, which stipulated that school uniforms be aesthetically and climatically appropriate, simple, cheap and facilitate girls’ learning activities, female school uniforms now come in a wider variety of styles and colors, including shirts and skirts or shirt and trousers.
Though a number of girls enjoy donning their ao dai, which accentuates Vietnamese women’s grace, feminity and tactfulness, most find wearing ao dai every day to school highly inconvenient for commuting and outdoor activities while mingling with their friends, said Duong Thu Trang, a teacher at Mac Dinh Chi High school.
“Many, particularly those who are agile and love outdoor games, really embraced the changes in school uniforms,” she added.
“I feel that if school girls wear ao dai the entire week, they tend to be less appreciative of the national costume’s beauty and significance,” Trang noted, adding that many school girls usually unbutton their high collars, roll up their sleeves or even tuck their ao dai rims into their pants for easier movement.
“But if they only wear ao dai to school on Monday, when they take part in the flag saluting ritual, or on national holidays, they tend to show much more respect and take pride in the traditional attire,” Trang further stressed.
Though some suggested dispensing with ao dai as school girls’ uniforms, Thanh urged that it should continue to be donned by school girls, but on Mondays and public holidays only.
“We encourage schools to do so, but many schools in HCMC still request their female students to wear ao dai the entire week. I’ve seen schools in remote, mountainous regions where girls still don white ao dai on Mondays. This is a really touching sight,” she elaborated.
Aesthetically speaking, famed ao dai designer Thuan Viet also showed support for Thanh’s idea.
Viet noted that school ao dai should be made with elastic, moisture-absorbing materials and need several adjustments, including not fitting tightly to the wearers’ bodies, low upright collars, and shorter and narrower pants.
(http://tuoitrenews.vn/lifestyle/11511/ao-dai-should-remain-students-ceremonial-costumes-discussion)
4/ The world on Vietnamese ao dai
VietNamNet Bridge – The Ao Dai Festival, part of the Hue Festival 2014, will take place from April 14 to 17 with the participation of 18 designers, 600 designs and 100 models.
The theme of this festival is the world's images printed on the Vietnamese ao dai.
Miss Vietnam 2010 Ngoc Han and supermodel Hoang Yen are chosen to advertise the Ao Dai Festival.
A design by Vo Cong Khanh, representing the image of Vietnam, performed by supermodel Hoang Yen.
This design by Minh Hanh reflects the image of Cambodia.
This design by Quang Nhat features the image of India.
Laos on the ao dai, designed by Hai Long, performed by Ngoc Han and Hoang Yen.
Thailand on the design by Duyen Huong.
5/ Collection
(Pictures: Internet)
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