Saturday, June 30, 2012

My journey in Hue

My journey: One day in Hue with motorbike. Detailed info about Royal tombs
                      Royal citadel in details with pictures
                      Enjoy the most beautiful sunrise on Tam Giang lagoon
                      1 hour in Quoc Hoc Hue high school  

  
 One day in Hue with motorbike. Detailed info about Royal tombs
 One day in and around Hue with motorbike taxi charged me 200,000VND (Or 10USD). 
 The main destinations: Kings' tombs (Khai Dinh, Minh Mang, Tu Duc); Vong Canh hill; Elephant temple (Dien Voi Re); Conical hat and incense stick making village; Lunch paid by myself; Thien Mu pagoda; My An hot spring; Tam Giang lagoon and Thuan An beach
Departure: 7:00AM
Finish: 4:00PM

* The friendly motorbike taxi driver picked me up at Binh Duong 1 hotel at 7:00AM. We started the day with famous Bun Bo Hue (Hue beef noodle soup) in Che Hem eatery which is one of the most popular destinations in Hue for breakfast. The eatery was in a small alley of Hung Vuong street and was full of motorbikes parking as we arrived. The reason: They sold the best Hue beef noodle soup. I have tried this kind of soup at many places, but nowhere can compare with it. Excellent, delicious. The price: 30,000VND/big bowl

* Then the bike came out of the city center to a leafy street with green hills. The firsts destinations were tombs of Khai Dinh, Minh Mang and Tu Duc kings
 Here comes some information about "The royal tombs of Nguyen's emperor" and "Khai Dinh, Minh Mang, Tu Duc tombs" from www.huefestival.com


  The royal tombs of Nguyen's emperor

Eighty years ago, a Westerner, Ph. Eberhard wrote “Hue is an attractive tourist center. There lies the Citadel, Royal Palaces and several royal tombs, which attracts the special attention of not only tourists but also fine arts creators. The royal tombs of Nguyen’s Emperors are especially worth visiting”.
The Dynasty of Nguyen (1820-1945) consisted of thirteen emperors. However, due to various complicated historic reasons, only seven royal tombs remain in Hue City, namely those of Gia Long, Minh Mang, Thieu Tri (including the tomb of Kien Phuc King), Duc Duc (including two tombs of Thanh Thai and Duy Tan), Dong Khanh and Khai Dinh. According to the  planning scheme on the architecture of the Nguyen Dynasty’s capital city in the early 19th century, these royal tombs were constructed in a separate region west of Hue.
The architectural style of the Nguyen Dynasty strictly conforms to the rules of geomancy. Each tomb follows rigid regulations relating to natural environment and geographical objects, such as rivers, mountains, ponds and lakes, streams and particularly to what is termed “mysterious palace”. The “mysterious palace” is considered the architectural focal point of all structures built during the Nguyen Dynasty. Centrally located, they are believed to be the most fertile earth within this construction. The surface arrangement of every tomb is divided into two main parts: the sepulchral area and the temple area. The sepulchral area is reserved for burying the King’s corpse and the temple area is a place where many palaces, mansions, pavilions and others were built for the king’s entertainment during his visits.
Consequently, every royal tomb in Hue is not only a historical and cultural relic, but also landscapes and architecturally artful ‘flowers’ of Hue Ancient City. Since Hue’s royal tombs have their own unique artistic and cultural features, they have been included in the list of World’s Wonders in “Les Merveilles du Monde” by the French Academician, Jean Cocteau (published in 1957 by a group of fifteen Western authors).

Khai Dinh tomb (Ung Lang)
Ascending the throne at the age of 31, Khai Dinh was passionately keen on building palaces, residences and his own tomb (namely Kien Trung Pavilion; An Dinh Palace, Truong An, Hien Nhon and Chuong Duc Gates; especially Ung Lang Tomb).
Construction of Khai Dinh’s Tomb began on September 4, 1920 and was completed one year later. In order to raise funds for the construction, Emperor Khai Dinh asked the protectorate government to increase the land tax by 30%. It was critically condemned in the history of Vietnam.
Despite its limited size (117 m x 48.5 m), Khai Dinh’s Tomb exhibits labour-intensive and time-consuming works. The tomb, on a whole, is on a rectangular block, which is reached via one hundred and twenty-seven steps up the hillside. The introduction of various architectural styles of India, Buddhism, Romanesque and Gothic can easily be found at every corner of the tomb - The columned gates influenced by Indian architecture, towers in the shape of stupas from the Buddhist style, the fence resembling a series of Holy Crosses, a Stele Pavilion supported by octagonal pillars with Romanesque-styled arch and so on. The synthesis of two architectural styles and the two cultures of the East and West reflect the historical transition and the Emperor’s character as well.
Atop this structure is Thien Dinh Temple, the main building of the tomb. Thien Dinh Temple consists of five parts attached to one another. The Right and Left Guards’ Chambers are on either side. In the middle is Khai Thanh Temple, which shelters the altar and portrait of Khai Dinh. Further behind the temple, under the royal canopy, stands the actual-sized bronze statue of Khai Dinh. His remains are interred below the statue. The last hall is reserved for the Emperor’s altar and funerary tablet. The inside walls of Thien Dinh Temple are decorated with murals of the “Four Seasons”, the “Eight Precious Objects”, the “Five Blessings”, and many others. These are made out of colorful bits of broken porcelain and glass embedded in cement. From graceless materials, local artists creatively produced vivid and supple objet d’art. Particularly, the royal canopy above the bronze statue with its graceful decoration give viewers an impression of a silk canopy, rather than a one-ton concreted one.
The person who was in charge of arranging the masterpieces at Khai Dinh’s Tomb, is the artist Phan Van Tanh. His three massive paintings can be seen on the ceiling of Thien Dinh Temple, the most prominent being “Nine Dragons Hiding in Clouds”.
In spite of various criticisms, Khai Dinh’s Tomb still displays an invaluable artistic architecture, which enriches the beauty of Royal Tombs in Hue.


Now come from outside to inside of Khai Dinh tomb












 Pics: vietnamguidebook

Tomb of Minh Mang (Hieu Lang)
The construction of this tomb commenced in 1840. Emperor Minh Mang changed the name of Cam Ke Mount into Hieu Son and named his tomb Hieu Lang (or the Tomb of Fidelity).
In January 1841, Emperor Minh Mang passed away when his tomb was still under construction. His successor, Emperor Thieu Tri carried on the construction one month after his coronation, following exactly the layout of his father. On August 8, 1841 the remains of Emperor Minh Mang was officially buried in Buu Thanh (the Imperial Sepulchre), but the tomb construction was not completed until early 1843.
Within the area enclosed by La Thanh Wall (1,750 m), there is a complex of palaces, pavilions and buildings symmetrically arranged along the 700m Holy Axis or Than Dao, which stretches from Dai Hong Mon (Great Red Gate) to the La Thanh wall, beyond the Emperor’s grave. The buildings are intermingled with lotus ponds and pine-covered hills.
Hien Duc Gate opens the way to the main temple area. Sung An Temple lies in the middle and is considered to be the centre of the Ta Phoi and Huu Phoi temples, the Ta Tung Phong and Huu Tung Phong Pavilions.
The majestic and grandiose features of the architecture, blended with the charming surroundings, reflect a strict personality, a scholarly mind and the romantic spirit of the Emperor.

 Now come from outside to inside of Minh Mang tomb









 Pics: vietnamguidebook



Tomb of Tu Duc king
(Khiem Lang) Tu Duc’s Tomb is one of the most beautiful monuments of Nguyen architecture. The talented Poet-Emperor chose for himself a deserving resting place, which matched the taste of a profound learned scholar and the most aimless figure among Nguyen Lords and Emperors. The tomb is located in the narrow valley of Thuong Ba Hamlet, Thuy Xuan Commune, Hue City.
Emperor Tu Duc was the ruler in a chaotic period. The country was under constant attack by invaders, the on-going conflict of royal rivals endangered his throne, and the Emperor himself suffered from illness, which ultimately resulted in his sterility. Simply put, Emperor Tu Duc was undergoing an extremely intricate situation. To seclude himself from such a severe life, Tu Duc had this tomb built as his second palace for relaxation and for his “unanticipated death”.
As the construction began, Emperor Tu Duc named the complex Van Nien Co, but after the coup plot led by the Doan Huu Trung brothers, the Emperor changed the name to Khiem Cung. Later after his death, it was called Khiem Lang.
Overall, Tu Duc’s Tomb looks like a huge park. The harmonious features of the works can be observed everywhere in the tomb complex. Almost fifty monuments of the two areas - the temple and the graveyard - were named with the word “Khiem”, which means modest.
Khiem Cung Mon leads to the area where the Emperor stayed during his visits to the complex. In the middle lies Hoa Khiem Temple, the working place of the Emperor, and now houses the Emperor and Empress’ funerary tablets. To either side of Hoa Khiem Temple, stands Phap Khiem and Le Khiem Pavilions, which were reserved for the accompanied civil and military mandarins. Behind Hoa Khiem Temple is Luong Khiem Temple, once used as the Emperor’s palace during his visits and later became a worshipping temple dedicated to the Emperor’s Mother - Tu Du. To the right of Luong Khiem Temple is On Khiem Pavilion - a storehouse for royal belongings. To the left of On Khiem Temple stands Minh Khiem Chamber, considered to be the oldest theatre of Vietnam.
The tomb of Tu Duc is among the most beautiful structures of the Nguyen Dynasty.







 Pics: vietnamguidebook


For your info: Other tombs

The tomb of Gia Long (Thien Tho Lang)
Built between 1814 and 1820, the tomb occupies a large area of 11,234.40 m and includes the following tombs:
- Quang Hung Tomb of the Queen Thai Tong Hieu Triet, the second wife of Hien Vuong, Lord Nguyen Phuc Tan (1620-1687)
- Vinh Mau Tomb of the Queen Anh Tong Hieu Nghia, the wife of Nghia Vuong, Lord Nguyen Phuc Thai (1650 -1725)
- Truong Phong Tomb of Tuc Tong Hieu Ninh Nguyen Phuc Thu Emperor (1697-1738)
- Thoai Thanh Tomb of the Queen Hung To Hieu Khuong (1738 - 1811), the second wife of Nguyen Phuc Con (Luan) and also the mother of Gia Long Emperor.
- Hoang Co Tomb of the Princess Thai Truong Long Thanh, the sister of Emperor Gia Long.
- Thien Tho Tomb of Emperor Gia Long and his wife
- Thien Tho Huu Tomb of the Queen Thuan Thien Cao, the second wife of Emperor Gia Long and also the mother of Emperor Minh Mang.
The whole area of this tomb is a complex of forty-two small and giant hills and mountains, each with a different name, of which, Great Thien Tho is the largest. The king’s tomb is located in a exceedingly hilly region. In the front is Great Thien Tho Mount and seven others mountains form the back. Fourteen mountains named “Ta Thanh Long” and “Huu Bach Ho” (Left Blue Dragon and Right White Tiger) stands on the left and right sides. The total tomb area is divided into 3 sections:
+ The Emperor and Queen Thua Thien Cao’s tomb stands in the center. Through the courtyard repieced with solemn stone statue lines and a seven-step offering yard, lies Buu Thanh (the sepulchre) on the hilltop.
+ Minh Thanh Temple, a place dedicated to the Emperor and his first wife, is located on the right.
+ To the left side is Bi Dinh (the Stele Pavilion). At present, a large stele, which is elaborately carved, still remains at this place. The stele notes the literary work “Thanh duc Than Cong” (The great virtues and merits) of Emperor Ming Mang in praise of his father.
Gia Long Tomb is a harmonious masterpiece between nature and man-made architecture. There, in a peaceful and quiet poetic space, lies the final resting-place of the first Emperor of the Nguyen Dynasty.
        
The tomb of Thieu Tri king (Xuong Lang)
Located at Cu Chanh village, Thuy Bang commune, Huong Thuy district, is the only tomb facing a northwest direction, which is rarely selected in the construction of palaces and tombs built during the Nguyen Dynasty. It is not enclosed by a wall.

During his lifetime, Emperor Thieu Tri did nothing to prepare for his death, partly because he did not want to waste the resources of his subjects. Only until he was on his deathbed, did he give his last will and testimony to his son- Tu Duc, the successor, to find a burial place for him. Tu Duc chose a small hill, naming it Thuan Dao and built his father’s tomb here, which he named Xuong Lang. The tomb was constructed rapidly and after three months of construction, most of the works were completed. The 2500-word biography of the deceased Emperor written by Emperor Tu Duc was engraved on a marble stele, and erected on November 19, 1848 to extol the accomplishments and virtues of the Emperor’s father.
Thieu Tri Tomb is a selected combination of architecture and layouts from Gia Long and Minh Mang’s tombs constructed with the picturesque and peaceful background of the countryside.

   The tomb of Dong Khanh king (Tu Lang)

 Located in a quiet countryside of Thuong Hai hamlet, Thuy Xuan commune, Hue city, the Tomb of Dong Khanh is set amidst the grave yard of the royal family, the tomb of Thieu Tri (Dong Khanh’s grandfather) and the tomb of Tu Duc (Dong Khanh’s uncle and adopted father).
Dong Khanh died when his tomb was not yet constructed. After Emperor Thanh Thai ascended the throne, he designated Trung Tu Palace as a worshipping temple for Dong Khanh and named it Ngung Hy Temple, due to economic difficulties at that time. Dong Khanh’s remains were also simply buried at Ho Thuan Hill, 30m to the west of Ngung Hy Temple. The tomb was called Tu Lang.
Between August 1916 and July 1917, Emperor Khai Dinh (Dong Khanh’s son) had the temple and sepulchre renovated. The renovation for the Left and Right Tung Temples and the Left and Right Tung Pavilions lasted until 1923. With such a long construction and renovation, Dong Khanh’s Tomb was influenced by two architectural styles of two periods. In general, the temple area still reflects the traditional features; particularly Ngung Hy Temple where the well-known lacquer art of Vietnam is preserved. Contrary to the traditional style of the temple, the graveyard is undoubtedly influenced by western architecture, decoration designs and even materials from the West. To some extent, the structure appears to be a successful experiment of blending and is in harmony with the surroundings.


Entrance fees for Royal citadel and 3 tombs of Khai Dinh, Minh Mang and Tuc Duc kings: 155,000VND (For Vietnamese);  320,000VND (For foreigner)

  * Finished visiting 3 tombs, the bike took me to the Tiger arena and Elephant temple. 
   This arena was built in 1830 with the wall round of 5.90m high and 4.50m thick surrounding it. The wall itself enclosed a stadium. The King’s seat, which was built higher, faces to the south, opposing five tiger cages.
  This used to be the place where duels between trained elephants and tigers were organized for the entertainment of the Nguyen Court and the public. It was also the main training site of fighting elephants. Before combat, all at the tiger’s sharp teeth and claws were cut off. Therefore, it was the tigers that were always trampled and killed by the elephants in those fights to the death. The triumph of the elephants was likened to the power of the Emperor and the Court. 



 Pics: vietnamguidebook


* Then We headed to conical hat and incense stick village. Actually this is just a "tourist village". Anyway, you will have an idea about making the famous Hue conical hat and incense stick
    Here comes some information about Conical hat village from www.huefestival.com
   Making conical hats has been a traditional craft for many generations in Hue city. One of the best-known places for making conical hats in the ancient capital city is the Phu Cam village (Phuoc Vinh ward), where most villagers live from the craft.
Hue city conical hats often consist of 16 brims and are made from latania and palm leaves and bamboo, which are readily availabel in the area. Unlike hats made in some other areas, Hue city conical hats are attractive, delicate and durable thank to the makers’ excellent skills.
Hue city is famous throughout Vietnam for its special hats made of high-quality latania leaves with pink paper pictures and famous poems between the two layers of leaves. The picture often show scenes from Hue city like Truong Tien bridge, Thien Mu pagoda, Ngu Binh mountain, a boat on the Perfume river, or the charming girls of Hue city.
These hats not only protect the wearers from the sun or rain, but also help make the girls of Hue city even more charming, which have made them an endless source of inspiration for poets and writers. The hats have become popular with many domestic and foreign visitors, who buy Hue city conical hats as a souvenir for their relatives or friend.





 Pics: vietnamguidebook

    * Then the bike climbed up to the 43m high pine hill - Vong Canh which gave one of the best views of Perfume river. Vong Canh is also the place the young couples dating


 Pics: vietnamguidebook

    * It was almost noon and the bike came to the Kim Long street, the beautiful street along Perfume river and We decided to have lunch in one restaurant (Rice noodle with fried beef come with fish sauce and vegetables: 18,000VND) and one eatery (Hue mussle rice: 7,000VND!). They were very tasty, especially the Hue mussle rice. Dont miss it if you visit Hue

* After lunch, the bike continued to Thien Mu pagoda. I have been here for many times and still love it very much. One of the most beautiful pagoda in Vietnam with great location on a leafy hill with green garden and facing the romantic Perfume river. As I once enjoyed cruising along Perfume river from the pagoda to Hue city center so I decided to continue by motorbike to other destinations. Note: There are a lot of dragon boats waiting in front of the pagodas.

                                                                  Pic: Wiki network

* The sunlight was strong at noon making me feel a little bit tired. Thats why when the bike stoped at My hot spring resort, I just wanted to jump into the cool swimming pool and then enjoyed the hot spring which is 42oC! Well if have time and money too, I would stay in this resort with beautiful bungalo designed in Hue traditonal architecture


My An resort
Address: My An hamlet, Phu Duong commune, Phu Vang district, Thua Thien Hue province
Tel: 054 3869 704 - 3623 442
Email: sales@myanonsenspa.com.vn
Web: www.myanonsenspa.com.vn

Overview: Hue traditional design, friendly staff

Room rate: 45USD up with breakfast



                                                      Pics: vietnamguidebook
* From My An hot spring resort, it was just some kilometers to be in Tam Giang lagoon. Well from the top of the bridge crossing the lagoon, I had a nice general view of this biggest lagoon in Southeast Asia (It was said that). In the afternoon, the lagoon was not excllent but I did have a great sunrise on lagoon for next day (See "Spectacular sunrise on Tam Giang lagoon)

* The final destination was Thuan An beach where I enjoyed the cool sea air (eventhough under the hot sun), watched some poeple swimming and some fishermen at work. Well, I did have my photos taken on a fishing boat too!

 Royal citadel in details with pictures 
I visited the Royal citadel in the afternoon on foot. Just took a one way motorbike from the city center to the outside of the citadel with 20,000VND and then started the journey. Take more water with you.

Here comes the information of Royal citadel from www.huefestival.com
The Royal Citadel took nearly thirty years to build (from 1803 to 1832). It is enclosed by a long rampart 6.6 m high and 21m thick, with an approximate perimeter of 9,000m. In the old days, twenty-four bastions existed here. The rampart is encircled by a deep moat for defensive purposes.
The Royal Citadel has connection to the outside through eight gates built in eight directions: East, West, South, North, Northwest, Southwest, Northeast, and Southeast. Furthermore, there are two gates - The Nhon and Quang Duc located on both sides of the Flag Tower. At the two ends of Ngu Ha River are two more gates for waterways of the Dong Thanh Thuy Quan and Tay Thanh Thuy Quan. In the direction of the Imperial City, there is a small fortress called Thai Binh built under the reign of Gia Long and Tran Binh Dai in the Minh Mang Dynasty with an approximate perimeter of 1km at the northeastern corner. There is also a wide canal connected with the Imperial City’s moat to the outside.
According to the principles of Oriental geomancy, the philosophy of Yin and Yang and the five basic elements of the Book of Changes, the Royal Citadel faces a Southern direction, using the Ngu Binh Mountain as a natural screen. In addition, two small islets on the Perfume River (the Con Hen and the Con Da Vien) represent attending dragon and lying tiger (Left Dragon - Right Tiger). These islets were used for guarding the Imperial Capital. The Perfume River, running in front of the Royal Citadel, is used as a “Minh Duong” (or Bright Pond). The four sides of the Citadel are enclosed by a river system called Ho Thanh (or Citadel Protecting River).
Inside the Citadel, the Imperial City and Forbidden Purple City are generally called Dai Noi (or the Great Enclosure). The Imperial City is used to protect the most important ritual and political bodies of the Court and temples. The Forbidden Purple City was a daily working and living place of the Emperor and his family.
Constructed from 1804 to 1833, the Great Enclosure is almost square in shape with the front and rear sides measuring 622m in length and with right and left sides spanning 604m. The surrounding protective wall was built by bricks (4.16m high and 1.04m thick) with a system of defensive moats outside called Kim Thuy Ho. Four entrances, piercing each side, include the Noon Gate (front), Hoa Binh Gate (back), Hien Nhon Gate (left) and Chuong Duc Gate (right). The main entrance of the Noon Gate was reserved only for the Emperor.
With over 100 monuments of beautiful architecture, the Great Enclosure is divided into various quarters:
  • Quarter of Noon Gate and Thai Hoa Palace (Palace of Supreme Harmony) is a site for the important court ceremonies.
  • Quarter of Trieu, Thai, Hung, The and Phung Tien temples are places for worshiping the Nguyen monarchs.
  • Quarter of Dien Tho and Truong Sanh Residences are private apartments reserved for the Queen Mother and the Grand
  • Queen Mother.
  • Quarter of Home Affairs is a royal factory and treasury.
  • Quarter of Co Ha Park and Kham Van Palace is for the princes’ studies and entertainment.
The Forbidden Purple City is also almost square in shape, measuring 3.7m high. The front and rear sides of this enclosed city are 324m long with left and right sides of 290m long with ten entrances. Dai Cung Gate, now completely damaged, is the main gate at the front side - reserved only for the Emperor. The big screen constructed behind Can Chanh Temple (place of daily work of the Emperor) separated the private world of the kings and their families from the other areas. Within this City, hundreds of imperial maids and tens of eunuches resided to serve the Royal family. Here exists nearly fifty resplendent architectural works, including Can Thanh Palace (the Emperor’s residence), Khon Thai palace (the Queen’s residence), Duyet Thi Duong (the Royal Theatre), Thuong Thien (the Royal Kitchen), Thai Binh Lau (the Royal Reading Pavilion), Quang Minh palace (princes’ residence), Trinh Minh palace (royal concubines’ residence), Kien Trung palace, Cam Uyen Garden, and many others.
The architectural system of the Great Enclosure was planned in accordance with the strict and well-proportioned principles. All locations in the front, back, left, right, top and bottom are consistently divided. This division shows the concepts of the Confucian political philosophy of the Orient. Most of the architectural works here are made of precious wood. However, because of severe climate and natural calamities, as well as fierce wars, some of them have been unavoidably damaged. At present, the government is investing in gradual restoration and embellishment of these precious monuments.

Now comes into some main parts of the citadel 

Nine holy canons
Among thousands of bronze genies canons cast under the reign of Nguyen’s lords and emperors, the Nine Holy Canons, cast in the reign of Gia Long, are the largest and the most beautifully decorated.
After conquering the Tay Son Royal Dynasty and taking the throne, Emperor Gia Long ordered all bronze wares of this dynasty to be collected and melted into nine big canons as “everlasting souvenirs”. The canons are named after the four seasons: Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter and the five elements: Metal, Wood, Water, Fire and Earth. In 1816, these canons were renamed “the Nine Holy Matchless Generals” by Gia Long.
Each canon is 5.1 m long with the barrel diameter of 0.23m and 0.105m thick.  The heaviest canon weighs 18,400 kg and the lightest is about 17,000kg. All are positioned on elaborately inscribed wooden brackets. Both sides of the canons have four wooden wheels, each encased in iron for their convenient manipulation.
Besides their historical values, the Nine Holy Canons are works of great art. The casting technique, decorative art and carving on the bronze canons and on the nine wooden brackets are very skilled and elaborate.

Noon gate
Noon gate is both the main gate and the face of the Great Enclosure and was constructed in 1833, when Emperor Minh Mang had the whole of architectural works inside the Great Enclosure planned and completed.
The Noon Gate is a diversified architectural work with the Belvedere of the Five-Phoenixes located on the upper part, which functions as a stage for the court’s solemn ceremonies, such as Troops Parade, Proclamation Ceremony of successful candidates in national examinations, and the promulgation of the lunar calendar. The Belvedere of the Five-Phoenixes is also the place where Emperor Bao Dai, the last Emperor of Vietnam, abdicated on August 30, 1945.
In accordance with the Book of Changes, kings have to face the South to rule the world. Therefore, under the reign of Emperor Gia Long (1802-1929), upon building the Hue capital city, architects put the system of walls and royal palaces in the direction of Northwest and Southeast. For example, the South-North direction is in the axis of the first and seventh Earthly Branches. Accordingly, Emperor Minh Mang named the newly built gate, located in the middle of the front of the Imperial City, as ‘Noon Gate’ in lieu of the old name of Nam Khuyet Estrade (“Noon” also means the South).
The foundation system constructed on the U-shaped area is nearly 5m high with a base of 57.77m long and sides of 27.06m long. The middle part of the foundation has three entrances. The central passageway, Noon Gate, was reserved for the Emperor and the Ta Giap and Huu Giap Gates for civil and military mandarins in the royal procession. Ta Dich and Huu Dich Gates, located in the wings of the Noon Gate, were reserved for the military, elephants and horses.
The Belvedere of the Five-Phoenixes has two storeys, including nine roofs covered with yellow and green enameled tiles. This Belvedere stands 1.14m high on the foundation. On the top storey, the roof is divided into nine different parts.


Thai Hoa palace (Palace of Supreme Harmony)
Within the complex of the Nguyen Dynasty’s imperial palace, Thai Hoa Palace is the most important architectural work in all its aspects: function, location, historical significance and cultural and artistic values.
This is also seen as the most prominent quarter of the Nguyen Court. Here the emperor’s official receptions and other important court ceremonies such as anniversaries, coronations and national celebrations were organized on the first and the fifth day of the lunar calendar. Such ceremonies were arranged with the participation of the Kings, the members of the Imperial Family and high-ranking mandarins.
Historically, the construction of this palace was divided into three main periods; each introducing their own modifications and improvements in terms of ornamental architecture.
Under Gia Long’s reign, the construction of Thai Hoa Palace was begun on February 21, 1805 and completed in October of the same year. When the imperial architectural system of the Citadel was renovated by Minh Mang, the palace was then moved onto a large and grandiose foundation which was a little slanted to the North. This occurred in the first month of the lunar year Quy Ty, i.e. March, 1833. Later, in 1923, in the reign of Khai Dinh, Thai Hoa Palace was restored by the emperor himself to prepare for his fortieth birthday anniversary. In this large-scale renovation process, some architectural parts of the palace were restored and rebuilt.
Nine dragons are ornamented on the palace’s roof by exceedingly skillful artisans. The throne, which is elaborately carved and gilded, lies at the end of the palace’s central compartment with a splendidly decorated canopy above. Eighty ironwood columns, which line in the palace are lacquered and beautifully adorned with red and gold dragons and clouds.
Through the architecture and decoration of Thai Hoa Palace, one finds that the ancients have inspired many deep thoughts interwoven with the traditional philosophy of the Orient in its construction. Beside the philosophical architectural language, the palace is also noted for its many literal languages with some 297 bas-reliefs, which have been engraved with poems in Chinese characters. The beauty of these words within the structure itself displays one of the specialties of Phu Xuan culture in the early 19th century.
In front of Thai Hoa Palace stands the Great Rite Courtyard (or Esplanade of Great Salutation), the Thai Dich Pond and the Trung Dao Bridge. The Great Rite Courtyard, which is divided into three terraces, was reserved for mandarins from the first to ninth grade. The order of mandarins was marked in two rows of small stone steles set up on either sides of the court.
Thai Hoa Palace (1805) is one of the best examples of these early monuments that reflect the unique motifs of the locality of Hue. It is also the largest and most majestic of the imperial architecture system that remains in Hue to this day.



Dien Tho palace (The Residence of everlasting longevity)

This is the largest-scale monument that still remains in the ancient city. The Palace consists of over 10 compartments arranged in a square-shaped foundation of 100m wide and approximately 150m long.
The main house, standing in the center, is reserved for the Emperor Mother’s residence and guest receiving. Here only remains Dien Tho Palace, Tho Ninh Hall, Truong Du Pavilion, Phuc Tho Shrine and Tinh Minh Mansion. The Palace of Dien Tho was built in 1804 and renamed several times since.


The Mieu (The temple)
In 1804, Hoang Khao Temple was built by Emperor Gia Long at its present-day site within the complex of The Temple. It was built to worship his father, Nguyen Phuc Luan. Then in 1821, Hoang Khao Temple was moved several meters behind The Temple and renamed “Hung Mieu” by Emperor Minh Mang.
The Temple was again shifted to its original location in the latter part of 1821-1822 to honor Gia Long and succeeding kings.
The Temple was built in an area of 1,500 m2. Up until the middle of the 20th century (1954), only seven altars of Nguyen’s emperors were placed at this temple: Gia Long (1802-1819), Minh Mang (1820-1840), Thieu Tri (1841-1847), Tu Duc (1848-1883), Kien Phuc (1883-1884), Dong Khanh (1886-1888) and Khai Dinh (1916-1925). Three emperors, namely Ham Nghi (1884-1885), Thanh Thai (1889-1907) and Duy Tan (1907-1916), who had the spirit of opposing French colonialism, were listed in the rank of “Emperor rejection”. These kings, therefore, were not officially dedicated at this temple until October of 1958.
In front of The Temple stands several different monuments: the Nine Dynasty Urns, the Pavilion of Splendor and others.


Cuu Dinh (Nine Dynastic Urns)
Placed in front of The Temple courtyard, they are unique and skillful works of Bo Cong (or Ministry of Public Works) cast towards the end of 1835 to early 1837 in Hue. Nine Dynastic Urns manifest the dream of everlastingness of the Nguyen Dynasty and the country’s beauty and prosperity.
These are obviously illustrated in their naming, dimensions and relief designs. Cao Urn (Gia Long) stands in the center and the other urns are symmetrically placed on either side: Nhan Urn (Minh Mang), Chuong Urn (Thieu Tri), Anh Urn (Tu Duc), Nghi Urn (Kien Phuc), Thuan Urn (Dong Khanh), Tuyen Urn (Khai Dinh), Du Urn and Huyen Urn.
The Nine Dynastic Urns are primarily valued for their immense dimensions and in the skillful casting of Hue craftsmen. The Cao Urn (2.5m high, 2,601 kg) is the greatest and heaviest, while the urn named Huyen Dinh (2.31 high, 1,935 kg) is the smallest and lightest. Each side of the urns are chiseled with 17 reliefs. Accordingly, 153 scenarios, including mountains, rivers, the moon, stars, trees, flowers, animals, weapons, vehicles and boats, etc are carved in the Nine Dynastic Urns. It can be seen that the 153 reliefs are 153 pictures in themselves. Within them, one can see the Hong River on the Tuyen Urn, the Cuu Long River on the Huyen Urn and the Huong River on the Nhan Urn.

The Nine Dynastic Urns are lined up under the terrace of Hien Lam Pavilion, in accordance with the altars in The Temple. Only the Cao Urn stands in the front of the other by about 3m because Emperor Minh Mang believed Gia Long was the Emperor who had greatest contribution to the Nguyen Dynasty.
 


Hien Lam Cac (Pavilion of Splendor)

The Pavilion of Splendor was built between 1821 and 1822, at the same time as The Temple in the reign of Minh Mang. The Pavilion stands on a square-shaped foundation with two sets of stairs, each of 9 steps adjoining both sides of the pavilion.
Hien Lam Pavilion is made of wood in accordance with the multi-storied structure. The pavilion is considered to be a memorial dedicated to the merit of Nguyen’s emperors, who are also honored in The Temple, while high-ranking mandarins are dedicated on either sides of Hien Lam Pavilion in Left and Right Houses.
Hien Lam Pavilion is a magnificent monument of great value in both technology and aesthetics with a graceful architecture in harmony with the beautiful natural landscape surrounding it.


Phu Van Lau (Pavilion of Edicts)
The Pavilion of Edicts was built in 1819 in the reign of Gia Long. It is the building where the Emperor’s and the Court’s important edicts and lists of successful candidates in the regional and national examinations were publicized.
In 1829, there had even been a duel between a tiger and an elephant on the pavilion grounds to entertain Emperor Minh Mang. In 1830, a three-day feast was also held there to celebrate the anniversary of Minh Mang King’s birthday.
The Pavilion of Edicts is a two-storied delicate house with a view to the South. Under the reign of Emperor Thieu Tri, two stone steles were erected on both sides of the pavilion inscribed with Chinese characters meaning “Tilt Your Hats and Dismount” reminding passers-by to tilt their hats and get off their horses when passing this monument.
 In the front of the Pavilion of Edicts standing nearby the Huong River is a house called Nghinh Luong Dinh. This place was reserved for the King’s swimming, enjoying the fresh-air and viewing the landscape.

Now step by step, come with me from the outside of citadel into the inside of it, with pictures, of course. 

Where the kings enjoyed swimming on Perfumre river
 



Then comes the pavilion in front of flag-pole

Hue flag-pole and outer wall of Royal citadel with moat








The Nhon gate of outer wall. Get through the gate into Royal citadel


Behind The Nhon gate is Nine canons


Next is Noon gate












The moat at both sides of the Noon gate 




Thai Hoa palace











Just outside of Thai Hoa palace













Queen and Emperor's costume


Coming next is Dien Tho palace





Then We come to The Mieu







In front of The Mieu is Nine Dynastic Urns


                                                      My Chinese name!

The last stop is Hien Lam Cac 



Enjoy the most beautiful sunrise on Tam Giang lagoon
The mobile phone woke me up at 2:45AM. Oanh, the Sales executive of Asiana Travel Mate came to pick me up to her office. Here, I met some of her colleagues and three Hue television reporters and camera man. 3:30AM, the van took us through the quiet city streets with yellow streetlight and then came into darkness of countryside road. Our group had one friend from Swiss. I forgot his name... ah ha... Maybe, I was so sleepy when Mr Thuy, the manager of Asian Travel Mate, introduced the members...

About 4:15AM, we arrived in Ngu My Thanh village of Tam Giang lagoon. And there, I and everybody "woke up" again. It was so beautiful when the purple, orange and red colours reflected on the water. It was just like the colours playing in the darkness of night. Not far away, We could see many small fishing boats standing on the water. They and the colours cut the sky, devided it half half... I took so many pictures like I never take pics before... I just wished the time stop moving to this this moment

The sky was getting a little bit clearer and on the shallow water surface, there appeared the small images of fishermen. Their shadows on water with fishing boats "burn" my camera. It was still really quiet. All of us almost kept saying nothing. We just watched the magic scenery in front of us. Should I call it the holy time?

Then a reserved boat came to the shore. Our group devided into two small groups to get onboard. The fisher men pushed the small boats slowly to the big motorised boat as the water was so shallow at shore. I caught a beautiful pic of this.
Sun slowly camed out and many fishermen came back after one night fishing. Their boats were full of fishes, shrimps and crabs. Here, on the water surface, I saw the lively floating fish market. It made me missing the colourful floating markets in Mekong delta. Some boats with a happy family: father were smoking, mother were selling fishes, the children were still sleepy, the clothes flying in the light wind...
Far away, the water and the sky now were in beautiful orange colour. I almost "burn myself" !

Then when the sky was totally clear, the motorised boat took us to the raising fish, shrimp and crab area. The water surface was immense and on it there were countless "bamboo walls" with some stilt cottages where the fishermen stayed inside to take care of his raising aquaproduct area. Some of us thought of a honey moon here, haha...

Time came to say good bye to the lagoon and We headed to the village nearby where local people planting water melon, chilly, sweet potato and tapioca...
We enjoyed to full with sweet water melons and came back to the city center at about 8:00AM

I would come back to the lagoon next time to see the sun slowly come down and sleep with the full moon!

4:15AM




4:20AM





4:25AM



4:45AM






5:10AM





5:45AM











6:10AM






                                      Pics of Tam Giang lagoon: vietnamguidebook

1 hour in Quoc Hoc Hue high school  
I walked back to my high school stage of life at Quoc Hoc Hue. The school brought me back to Le Quy Don high school in Sai Gon where I had a great unforgettable pupil time

I saw her standing at the window looked at the falling leaves. Yes, the school were full of big trees and when autumn came, it was a world of romance. She loved making poem...

Summer in Quoc Hoc Hue with closed classes, just only some pupils reviewing the lessons for coming Univeristy exam. I walked to the first floor of the school and there the phoenix flower burn the sky. I miss a lot!!! She was far away from me, really far!!!

3 years in my life. Just wished the time to come back like the song "If you have a wish in your life, wish for the time to come back when we are the high school pupils"!




  



 Pics: vietnamguidebook


No comments:

Post a Comment

베트남 여행 일지 - Travel diary of a Seoul student in Vietnam: http://vnkrphrasebook.blogspot.com