Thursday, November 29, 2012

The tunnel system of Cu Chi

Content includes:
A/ Overview
 * Brief Description
 * Origin of the tunnel system
 * The Structure of tunnel system
 * Living condition in the tunnel system 
 * Fighting from underground base
 * Video: The Cu Chi tunnels 
 
B/ Cu Chi tunnel by bus
C/ Cu Chi tunnel by Express boat 
D/ My 1/2-day Cu Chi tunnel tour by express boat
E/ Cu Chi by public bus and www.couchsurfing.org



A/ Overview
* Brief Description
Established in 1940s, the Cu Chi tunnel system reached its height in 1960s with a total length of more than 200km and was called by many names such as "Underground village", "Dangerous Secret Zone", "Steely Zone"... Come to Cu Chi to understand more Vietnam - American war (1954 - 1975)


* Origin of the tunnel system
During the resistance war against the French colonialists (1945 - 1954), revolutionary fighters took refuge in secret hide-outs dug in the enemy's rear zone and were protected by their compatriotes. These hide-outs were underground with only one small mouth serving as the entrance and exit. The revolutionary fighters lived in the hide-outs during daytime, and went out at night to perform their duties.

A defect of these hide-outs was once found out, the people hiding inside were easily controlled and arrested. Hence arose the necessity to prolong and transform them into tunnels opening up with many secret mouths. The tunnel system was born.

In Cu Chi, the tunnel system was built earliest in 1948 in the two villages of Tan Phu Trung and Phuoc Vinh An. In the beginning, they were short and primitively structured sections used to conceal documents and weapons, and to shield revolutionary fighters operating in the enemy's rear zone. It was later expanded to many other villages. From 1961 to 1965, the guerilla war of Cu Chi inhabitants spread out quickly. It provoked the great losses to the enemy, and took part in defeating the strategy "Special war" of Americans. Five villages in the North of Cu Chi completed the backbone tunnel. Afterwards, administrative and military units built ramifications which linked to it.

Later, during the resistance war against America, the Cu Chi tunnel system experienced great development, especially at the beginning of 1966 when Americans deployed the elite infantry division number 1 "Big Red One" to launch a large scale operation named Crimp to attack and mop up the base zone. This operation was followed by the dispatching of the 25 division "Tropical Lightning" to establish the Dong Du base from where continuous savage raids and mopping up assaults against the Vietnam revolutionary forces were launched.

To cope with such attacks, Cu Chi guerillas and people continuously dug tunnels to build "fighting villages and hamlets". With only rudimentary means and tools such as hoe blade and bamboo basket, Cu Chi people and troops had erected the impressive tunnel system of hundreds of km zigzagging underground, linking villages and hamlets into a spectacular "underground village".

Just one year after the Crimp operation, on January 8th, 1967, Americans launched a large scale operation named "Cedar Falls" into the "Iron Triangle" zone, with the aim to raze the base and to annihilate the revolutionary forces. At this time the tunnel system had reached a total length of over 200km. It was not just defensive but offensive. Together with minefields on the ground, they became a constant threat to the enemy throughout the war.



* The Structure of tunnel system
The tunnel network zigzaged underground from the backbone path (main path) to a multitude of short and long ramifications, some of which were independent, some cut off in length according to geographical conditions. There were ramifications with mouths having access to Saigon river. These mouths allowed hiding persons to cross the river to Ben Cat base zone in Binh Duong province when the situation was critical. 

The tunnels were not dug deep, but still were resistant to canon shells and to heavy weight of tanks and armoured cars. Some deep sections were capable of protection even against small scale bombs. There were sections structured from two to three storeys with 8 -10m deep. In the tunnel system there were also bottle-neck/block-points at sensitive spots to obstruct the way of enemy or to stop the toxic chemicals sprayed by them. There were also narrow sections that only light and thin persons could worm their way through. Along the tunnels there were carefully-disguised shafts for fresh air, connected to surface by multiple secret openings. Numerous mouths were designed to serve as fighting nests which caused utter surprise to the enemy. Pitfalls, nail and spike traps were set at critical points of the system...

Around the tunnel entrances and exits were also laid nail and spike traps, landmines as well as anti-tank mines and anti-helicopter grenade launchers to prevent helicopters from swooping down and the enemy from approaching.

Interrelated to the system were broad trenches for resting after combat where hammocks could be hung up. In the tunnel system, there were "Dien Bien Phu" smokeless kitchen, conference chambers, living rooms, conical air raid shelter that also amplified sound of approaching aircraft, storerooms...


* Living condition in the tunnel system
Throughout the entire period when the enemy conducted devastating attacks, all activities of people and combatants were "burried" below ground. Cu Chi people still tried to lead a normal life in hard condition. Actually the living condition in the tunnel system was undoubtedly harsh, but this was unfortunately unavoidable. In order to protect resistance forces for a protracted war, every hardship had to be endured, at times beyond human endurance. Since darkness pervaded the low narrow tunnels, it was difficult to walk upright and people had to hunch their back and crawl most of the time. There were spots that were humid and suffocating owing to lack of oxygen and light (light shone mainly from candles and flashlights). Whenever someone fainted, he or she was brought out of the tunnel to be given artificial respiration. During rainy season, the earth gave birth to noxious insects and even to snakes and to other species of reptiles... As for women, life was much harsher, especially for those who just gave birth in the tunnel.  


* Fighting from underground base
Throughtout a long time, the Americans had launched incessant devastating attacks against the base area and the tunnel system. Their tactics can be described:

1/ Using water to destroy the tunnel system 
In the operation named Crimp, from January 8th to January 19th, 1966, American army deployed up to 12,000 troops, supported by planes, tanks and artillery to assault the liberated area in the North of Cu Chi. They pump water into the ungerground tunnels, trying to flush out their adversaries. In places away from Saigon river, they used helicopters to haul tanks of water with which they attempted to flood the tunnel. This scheme bore no results, as the water being small in volume, was insufficient to inundate it. It was just adequate to wet the ground. According to American's documents, they could only destroy 70 meters of the tunnel, it was a very small number in comparison with the hundreds of kilometers of the system.


2/ Using the "sewer rats" army to attack the tunnel system
In the operation "Cedar Falls" (also called "To peel off the crust of the Earth" operation) starting on January 8th, 1967, the Americans deployed 30,000 troops supported by tanks, armoured cars, artillery and air force to launch attack against the "Iron triangle" zone. They razed to the ground the township Ben Suc (Ben Cat) and devastated 6 villages of the North Cu Chi laying above a labyrinth of the tunnels.

Carrying out this operation, the Americans had ambition to capture high-ranking officers of the Sai Gon-Gia Dinh military zone headquarter and leaders of the Party Committee of Sai Gon - Gia Dinh zone, to destroy the zonal forces, to wreck the base and the tunnel system, to forcibly move people to another place, and to turn this area into a zone "free for destruction". In reality, 1,000 local inhabitants were killed or wounded, 10,000 others gathered into "strategic hamlets", 6,000 dwellings destroyed and 3,700 tonnes of rice seized by Americans.

The American fielded in this raid the army of "sewer rats" numbering 600 men of the engineer troops, selected for their small size and given order to blow up the tunnel system.

The "sewer rats" formed team of four, two of them standing above and the other two slipping into the tunnel (where they had discovered that resistance fighters had left for another position). They wore antitoxic masks, held high-velocity submachine guns, iron lances, daggers, toxic gas insufflators, flashlights... They laid mines at intersections and connected trip-wires to the surface then set explosion to blow up the tunnel.

With this method, the American did bring down a number of short sections of the tunnel, but this was insignificant when viewed against hundreds of zigzag, multi-storeyed and multi-mouthed ramified tunnels.

The tactic of using engineer troops to wreck the tunnel system finally failed.

And finally the Americans had to admit sourly: "Its impossible to destroy the tunnel system because not only it is too deep, but its also zigzagging with not a single straight portion... Attacking with engineer troops is not effective, and its very difficult to find out mouths to drop into the tunnels...


3/ Using Alsatians (German dogs) to attack the tunnel system
During the operations, the American used Alsatians to lead the way to detect the tunnels. Some 3,000 dogs were unleashed on Cu Chi and Ben Cat battlefields. These dogs of West Germany origin sniffing out people keenly were professionally trained before being sent to Vietnam.

The tactics of using military dogs caused difficulties to resistance troops and guerillas, as human odor could be smelled out by dogs through the tunnel apertures and mouths.

To deal with these difficulties, at the beginning, the guerillas shot down the dogs. But in so doing, resistance fighters revealed themselves to the Americans who concentrated their attacks on them. Later chilly was crushed and mixed with pepper powder to be scattered at the tunnel mouths which made the dogs cough to suffocation. But this agian was no use, because as dog coughing, it led the American to the tunnel mouths. The task of fighting dogs became more difficult, so a campaign was launched for the people to give suggestions. Measures were finally found to put out of action the packs of dangerous dogs.


4/ Using bulldozers to wreck the tunnel system
This was a very fierce action. It consisted of mobilizing hundreds of high-powered vehicles to unearth entirely each section of the system. Wherever the Americans arrived, they blew toxic chemicals into the tunnel and call through loud speakers for surrender.

During these days, despite the fact that the Americans coordinated various branches of their armed forces to attack the tunnel system, resistance fighters kept clinging to the tunnel, engaging in combat activities, destroying the American fire-power.

Having achieved no results as expected, the Americans had to give up the stratagem, because they were unable to bulldoze earth to wreck all the tunnel under conditions of being fought back without a respite for day and night.


5/ Sowing grass to disrupt the topography
The American flew planes to drop seeds of a species of grass which the Cu Chi people call "American grass". This kind of grass, once sown and when it rained, grew and spread unbelievably quickly, reaching two to three meters after just one month and having big sharp stems. They overgrew the grass in the fields, and formed impregnable clumps which hindered comings and goings and combat activities. They also helped American planes reconnoitre easily targets to strafe and bomb.

In the dry season, the grass withered yellow, then dried like straw. Set fire by rockets, canon shells and bombs, the clumps of grass burnt fiercely, which made the ground naked, minefields explode... The result was different organs and units did not have shelter to live, and their personnels when walking laid footprints on the ash layer, thus showed the way to Americans to reach and attack the system.

However, this scheme had also met with the same fate as the others. This was so, because the verdoyant vegetation of the fields of Vietnam had risen up to provide cover for the base zone... 

                        (According to Cu Chi tunnel of Senior Lieutenant Colonel Tran Dinh Dung)
 


                                         
The tunnel of Cu Chi (Dia Dao Cu Chi)
                                                            Pic: vietnamguidebook


Video: The Cu Chi tunnels 




B/ Cu Chi tunnel by bus
Most tourists join Cu Chi tunnel 1/2-day tour by air-condition buses offered by many tour operators/agencies in the Backpacker's area of Sai Gon located on De Tham street, Bui Vien street and Pham Ngu Lao street.

Price: 6 - 7USD/pax 

Cu Chi tunnel entrance fee: 90,000VND  (4.5USD)

Inclusive: Bus and English tour guide

Depart: about 8:00AM     Back to Saigon:  about 1:30PM

(Then you can join Saigon 1/2-day afternoon tour deaparting at 2:00PM: War cremnant museum, Reunification palace, General post office, Notre Dame Cathedral)


The most famous tour operators are: 
1/ TheSinhTourist (formerly well-know as Sinhcafe)
    Addresss: 246 De Tham street
    Tel: 3838 9597
    Email: info@thesinhtourist.vn
    Website: www.thesinhtourist.vn



2/ TNK travel
    Addresss: 220 De Tham street
    Tel: (84-8) 39204766 - 39204767 - 39205847
    Website: www.tnktravel.com.vn


3/ Kim travel 
    Addresss: 189 De Tham street
    Tel: (848) 39205552 / 39205553
    Email: info@kimtravel.com
    Website: www.kimtravel.com






C/ Cu Chi tunnel by Express boat 
Those who look for the Saigon waterway to Cu Chi, can join 1/2-day Cu Chi tunnel tour by express boat offered by many tour operators in Bach Dang boat station on Ton Duc Thang street (opposite Renaissance Riverside Saigon hotel)

Price: 69++ USD

Inclusive: Pick-up and drop-off services at your hotel in the center of Saigon, light breakfast, lunch (onboard or in Cu Chi restaurant), Cu Chi entrance fee, English speaking guide.

Depart: about 8:00AM                    Back to Saigon: about 2:00PM

Famous tour operators:
1/ Saigon River Express
    Addresss: Me Linh Point Tower, Suite 2105, No.2 Ngo Duc Ke street
    Tel: 0128 592 0018
    Email: bookings@saigonriverexpress.com
    Website: http://www.saigonriverexpress.com


2/ Saigon River Tour 
    Addresss: 10B Ton Duc Thang street
    Tel: 6290 9410
    Email: bookings@saigonrivertour.com
    Website: www.saigonrivertour.com


3/ TheSinhTourist 
    Addresss: 246 De Tham street
    Tel: 3838 9597
    Email: info@thesinhtourist.vn
    Website: www.thesinhtourist.vn

    Overview: If you stay in the backpacker area, then come to this company. Its the agency of Cu Chi tunnel  express boat tour operators. With same price

 


D/ My 1/2-day Cu Chi tunnel tour by express boat


Departed from Bach Dang boat station on Ton Duc Thang street


Onboard express boat


On Saigon river

Arrived in Cu Chi after 1 hour



Showed ticket at entrance (90,000VND/pax)

Watched Cu Chi documentary film

Punji stake trap


Experienced how small/narrow the mouth of tunnel was!


And my foot

The models of guerilla


Shoe made of rubber tyre

American tank was destroyed by landmine

Saw many kind of traps







Sawing bomb for recycling

How to dig the tunnel


Selling shoes made of rubber tyre


Testing M16 with friends at Cu Chi Tunnel (Photo credit: Uudam Nguyen)

Time to close the firing range at Cu Chi tunnels? 


Entered the tunnel system. Actually, this 100m long part of tunnel was modified. (Therefore, even if you enjoy Mcdonal so much, dont worry, you will get through. This part of tunnel welcomes many Western tourists everyday). 
There were some small electrical lights inside.
Attention: Some people feel a little bit suffocating, especially when this part is full of visitors and moving is very slowly inside. Children should come with parents with flashlight.







What kind of food they had in war time? Steamed tapioca and peanut...
                                                            Pics: vietnamguidebook

E/ Cu Chi by public bus
     Bus route number 13 + 79
    Take bus number 13 at Bus station on Pham Ngu Lao street (Backpacker area). Arrive in Cu Chi bus station. Travel time: 75 minutes (36km)

    Note: Arrive in Cu Chi bus station, take another bus number 79 to Cu Chi tunnel. This bus belongs to Quyet Tien company. Price: 6,000VND. Travel time: 40 minutes. The last bus departs at 5:00PM
     Tel: (08) 3821 4444

  Its better to join 1/2 day tour or you can join Cu Chi tunnel tour organised by members of www.couchsurfing.org (Posted on Couchsurfing: Price : 2,5 usd / 1 person. Include: bus ticket, guide)










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베트남 여행 일지 - Travel diary of a Seoul student in Vietnam: http://vnkrphrasebook.blogspot.com