Monday, March 13, 2017

BEN TRE - THE WORLD OF COCONUTS

Content includes: 
                        A/ Overview
                        B/ General Information and Map
                        C/ My journey
                        D/ Ben Tre city  
                        E/  How they do that
                        F/  Where to stay in Ben Tre city
                        G/ Food, Drink and Shopping
                     
                  

 Tet Festival of the people in Mo Cay, Ben Tre province by Nguyen Vinh Hien.




A/ Overview
Kingdom of coconut and water coconut
Every year, Ben Tre province produces 250 million coconuts. About each two years, the province has one Coconut festival (Nearest is Coconut festival in April 2012 for 6 days)
Thats the kingdom of coconut! And We call it coconut forest!

Coconuts are everywhere, in the rice fields, at the riverside, on the banks of canals and natural creeks. Children plays with coconuts. They sleep on hammocks hanging on coconut trees. Their feet run on coconut bridge. The coconuts are just in front of their house from their ancestor time. They grow up with coconuts and if they are far away from home, in their hearts and their dreams , there are images of coconuts!



On the rivers, canals, creeks, there are many big motorised boats filled to fullest with coconuts. Most for exporting and selling to other cities in Vietnam.
Along the rivers, canals, you also see so many houses full of coconuts.

Not only coconut gives fruits, Ben Tre province is the kingdom of water coconut too. The leaves of water coconuts are used to make the roof of the house. Inside the water coconut trees along rivers, canals, creeks, there are many fishes, shrimp, crab...

For all Vietnamese tourists, they love taking the rowing boats along the leafy zigzag canals.
The lady with conical hat, standing on the rowing boat, her hand hold the coconut water leave is the symbol of Ben Tre province.

                                                    Coconut forest. Pic: vietnamguidebook

                                             Coconut boat. Pic: vietnamguidebook

Motorised boat along water coconut creek. Pic: vietnamguidebook

Motorised boat along water coconut creek. Pic: vietnamguidebook


Rowing boat along water coconut creek. Pic: vietnamguidebook 

Water coconut leaves. Pic: vietnamguidebook








Coconut village road. Photo credit: vietnamguidebook



Help! Where should I start?
Believe or not. Ben Tre is bathed by countless beautiful rivers, canal, creeks. According to newspapers, there are more than 8,000km of waterways. In fact, Ben Tre is formed by three big islands. There are three big rivers empty into East Sea: Tien, Ba Lai, Co Chien, Ham Luong rivers.


Ben Tre offers the great river cruises! There are some company offering 2 or 3-day cruises in and from Ben Tre to other provinces of Mekong delta.


Cycling in beautiful, peaceful villages 
I love riding bicycles in leafy peacuful villages. There are many vegetable gardens along the way and local people are really friendly.
As Ben Tre was "hidden" for long time and few foreign tourists visit so Im sure you will be welcomed by a lot of Bentrenese, especially children and old people.

Kingdom of tropical fruits
The Cho Lach district of Ben Tre province has yearly tropical fruit festival on 5th May of Lunar calendar. Its the land of rambutan, mangosteen, durian which are famous around Vietnam.
Coming to Cho Lach in May, you have chance to pluck the fruits on trees. Coming to Cho Lach, standing beside colourful rambutan fruit trees, I become a little boy!
Note: its really crowded in Cho Lach on 5th May of lunar calendar. You may come to Cho Lach 1 or 2 days before to avoid a world full of local tourists. 



B/ General information and Map 



                                                           Pic: vietnamguidebook


Location: Ben Tre is about 90km from Sai Gon. To the North, it shares border with Tien Giang province. To the South, it borders Tra Vinh province. To the West, it borders Vinh Long province. To the East, it faces East sea


Natural land area: 2,315 square kilometers


Population: 1,400,000 people


Administrative units: 1 city (Ben Tre city) and 7 districts


Ethnics: Kinh (Vietnam's main ethnic group)


Climate: Tropical monsoon, with rainy season from May to October, then dry season from November to April next year
               Annual average temperrature between 26oC and 27oC

Rainfall: Annual average between 1,250mm and 1,500mm



C/ My journey
1st day
Sai Gon to Ben Tre city by bus
I left the busy Sai Gon city center on an A/C bus in the early morning. Just after 30 minutes, the bus entered the first freeway connecting Sai Gon and Mekong delta. The name of freeway was Sai Gon - Trung Luong. Its maximum 100km per hour on this freeway and there was no motorbike. The world kingdom of motorbikes, Sai Gon, was really far away now. On the freeway, I saw a colourful world with the yellow vast rice fields, green vegetables, bananas, papayas and coconuts...

After a two-hour drive, the bus climbed up to the top of Rach Mieu bridge connecting My Tho city  and Ben Tre province. From here, I saw the great Mekong river networks. On the left, the Mekong flowed about 50 more kilometers to East sea. On the right, 180 more kilometers would be Cambodia. On the rivers, there were many small floating houses which were used to stay and raise "Dieu hong" fishes under them. And everywhere was green colour! Thats the colour of coconuts, longan trees and other tropical fruit trees...

The bus continued 30 more minutes along the national highway number 60 running through Ben Tre province. Along this highway, there were many shops selling coconut candy, many kinds of coconut fruit and products made of coconut. And at last, the bus arrived in Hung Vuong boat station, in front of Hung Vuong hotel, along Ben Tre river. From Hung Vuong hotel, its just 2-minute walk to Ben Tre market and Ben Tre church. Thats the center of Ben Tre city.



Float myself freely on zigzag green water coconut creeks
I got onboard a small motorised boat at Hung Vuong boat station. The boat moved slowly along Ben Tre river. On the left, Ben Tre city was beautiful with deeply blue sky, quiet riverside road, sleepy colonial buildings and big tall trees. There, on the riverside park, was a beautiful Bo Cap Vang flower tree. The yellow colour of its flowers in the sunshine was so lovely!


Many motorised boats with noisy engines runned along the busy Ben Tre river. I saw many of them carrying coconuts, sugar canes, jars (keeping rain water for using in dry season...). Along the river now there were many mangrove trees with green leaves shaking. It was really cool!

After 30 minutes, the boat stopped at a brick kiln belonging to a local person. I spent 30 minutes here and its was interesting to know the process of making brick. Please see the pictures below to have a general view how to make bricks in Ben Tre city.

Then the boat moved to the most beautiful parts of my journey. It entered the very green water coconut creeks and the sky was so blue. Along the creeks, there were many houses full of coconut. They processed coconuts and sold to merchants for exporting. Its so exciting to see a local man peel off the husk of coconut with just 5 to 8 seconds here. One day, he could process 1,600 pieces of coconut! Think you can do that? I dont. Please see the short video of husking coconut below. 

Along the creeks, I also saw the daily activities of local people such as fishing, bathing, chopping down the leaves of water coconut to make the house, especially its roof.

The boat also stop at a rest stop along the creek where I enjoyed some tropical fruit, honey tea and Mekong delta traditional music. The fruits were so so but the music was great! (Well, at least for me, as I had a lot of Asian and Western friends who didnt like it)


The last stop was a place showing how to make coconut candy. Of course, this small place was just for tourists. It showed the model of making coconut candy only. There were many products made of coconut here. I liked the many coconut monkeys - each played a musical instrument - made them become a music band.


Then I got on a bicycle along the Ben Tre village roads. They were very small, zigzag roads running through the many green vegetable and tropical fruit gardens. Looked up, the sky was blue and the tall coconut leaves shaking. How peaceful it was!

My journey continued with a rowing boat along zigzag green water coconut creek. I have been in Ben Tre province many times and all the times I really loved taking rowing boat along water coconut creek. The lady wearing conical hat on a rowing boat in water coconut creek is the symbol of Ben Tre province. 

Lunch was served at the riverside  "Dua Xanh" restaurant. ("Dua Xanh" in English is green coconut)


Overnight in a really basic room with hard bed and fan in the coconut garden. There was no internet, no entertainment, but I did have nature by my side. The lovely sound of crickets and frogs replaced the noise of Sai Gon motorbikes. I fell in sleep quickly.







Brick kiln overview
                                                               Pic: vietnamguidebook

Clay is collected from rice fields then is transpoted to brick kiln by boats. Workers lay the clay into machine and the grey bricks coming out. Dry the bricks under sun. Then burn them in the kiln for about 21 days by rice husks. The pink bricks can be used for contrustion now.
A kiln can accommodate to 6,000 - 10,000 pieces of grey bricks.

Pics of cutting brick machine
 
  
 

Brick kiln and burning the brick by rice husks


Pics: vietnamguidebook


Inside a empty brick kiln
 

                                                              Pic: vietnamguidebook

A small stilt house of fisherman


  Pic: vietnamguidebook

Coconut trees along Ben Tre river


House and coconut and the sky


House full of coconuts



Peel off the coconut husk: this man can process 1600 pieces (See video of "how they do that")


Children on hammock 



Boat full of coconut on river and creek

                                                            Pics: vietnamguidebook


Fishing along the river and creeks
 

Pics: vietnamguidebook


Motorised boat along water coconut creek


                                                            Pics: vietnamguidebook


Rowing boat along the water coconut creeks




                                                            Pics: vietnamguidebook


                                                           Videos: vietnamguidebook

Raising fish under floating houses (View from Rach Mieu bridge)
                                                             Pic: Haianh (phuot.vn)

Sunset (View from Rach Mieu bridge)
                                                            Pic: Haianh (phuot.vn)




2nd day
Went to the heart of Ben Tre
Ben Tre is the kingdom of coconut and Mo Cay district of Ben Tre province is the heart of this kingdom. 
In the early morning of the second day in Ben Tre, I took a public bus from Ben Tre city to Mo Cay district. After about 15 minutes driving, the bus came to Ham Luong bridge. There, so picturesque, in front of me was a coconut forest like green carpet with the vast "chocolate" river and a lot of zigzag creeks

The bus continued to Mo Cay Nam town where  I got off and visited Tuyet Phung coconut candy factory. After some 20 minutes seeing how to make candy, I walked to some coconut gardens nearby where I just wished to sleep on the hammock under the shadows of coconuts.

It was almost noon and I met a boy riding bicycle along the coconut street. I wanted to stay longer but Its time to jump on the bus again. I had to go back to Saigon.















                                                           Pics: vietnamguidebook


                                                         Video: vietnamguidebook


D/ Ben Tre city 
This peaceful city has a lovely riverside with some colonial buildings (Ben Tre church, Ben Tre museum), one market (Ben Tre market) and one tourist pier (Hung Vuong pier)...

Most of hotels and guesthouses are located along the riverside.

Hung Vuong pier along Ben Tre river

Ben Tre riverside

"Bo Cap Vang" flowers along riverside



Ben Tre museum


Ben Tre church


                                                            Pics: vietnamguidebook


E/ How they do that
Peel off the coconut husk
The local men in Ben Tre province can peel off 1,500 coconuts in one day. How amazing it is! Take a look at the below video.


Scrape the coconut meat out
                                                            Videos: vietnamguidebook

                                                     


F/  Where to stay in Ben Tre city
Most of hotels and guesthouses are located along Ben Tre riverside 
      
1/ Hung Vuong hotel (Nha khach Hung Vuong) 
    Address: 166 Hung Vuong street (some hundred meters from Ben Tre market)

    Tel: 075 3822 408 - 3826 134

    Email: hungvuongguesthouse@vnn.vn

    
   
    Room rate: 300,000VND (15USD with breakfast)
    Overview: A nice hotel with great location. Large room with air-conditioned, Tivi, fridge, hot shower and bathtub

    Pictures:




                                                         Pics: vietnamguidebook




 2/ (My pick) Dai An hotel
    Address: 234 - D8, Hung Vuong street

    Tel: 075 351 2050

    Room rate: 280,000VND up (14USD)

    Overview: One of the best and newest standard hotels of the city. Rooms are nice, clean with air-conditioned, hot shower, LCD Tivi, fridge. Wifi
    Pictures: 




                                                            Pics: vietnamguidebook



3/ Ham Luong hotel
    Address: 200C Hung Vuong street, ward 5, Ben Tre city

    Tel: 0753 560 560 - 075 383 9009

    Email: hamluongtourist@vnn.vn

    Website: www.hamluongtourist.com.vn
   
    Room rate: 390,000VND up (1pax) - 480,000VND up (2pax)

    Overview: A 3-star hotel with great location. Nice rooms with air-conditioned, hot shower with bathtub, minibar, Tivi (small and quite old), wifi...
    Pictures:




  
 



4/ Viet Uc hotel
    Address: 144 Hung Vuong street, ward 3 (just some steps to Ben Tre market, near Hung Vuong pier)

    Tel: 075 3511 888

    Email: fom.vietuchotel@vietuc.net
    Website: http://hotelvietuc.com
   
    Room rate: 400,000VND up(with buffet)

   Overview: A new 3-star hotel of the city with great location. I havent used it service yet. Just passed by many times. One of my friends in Ben Tre said the room rate sometimes falls down sharply to about 350,000VND (17USD). On Agoda, you can get the standard room at about 20USD
                    9 stories with 74 rooms, A/C, hot shower with bathtub, LCD Tivi, minibar, gym, massage...
                    Some steps to Ben Tre market

    Pictures: 






G/ Food, Drink and Shopping
    Food
* Fried coconut worm: 8,000 - 15,000VND/worm (speciality of Ben Tre)


                                                           Videos: vietnamguidebook



* Com nau bang nuoc dua (Rice cooked with coconut juice)
                                                            Pic: vietnamguidebook


* BBQ chicken with coconut juice



* Banh it dua (Sticky rice cake with coconut): 1,000 - 2,000VND/piece


 * Ben Tre restaurant (Nha hang Ben Tre)
   One of the largest restaurant at riverside along Hung Vuong street serving many Ben Tre specialities. Tel: 075 3822 492
    Note: I havent used it service. Check it by yourself

                                                          Pic: vietnamguidebook



* Quan 160 eatery
   This local eatery is often crowded thanks to its delicious noodle soup. Located on Hung Vuong street, near Cai Ca bridge. Tel: 0987 193 630 - 0919 773 278


                                                           Pics: vietnamguidebook



Drink
* Coconut wine 


* Coconut juice: 10,000 - 15,000VND (In garden farmers often sell it 5,000VND)
There are many kinds of coconut with green, yellow, orange colours. For drinking, you should ask for "Nuoc dua xiem" which is sweet. "Dua xiem" is quite small with green colour


                                                          Pics: vietnamguidebook

Shopping
Coconut chopsticks, forks, spoons 


Coconut bag


Monkey music band

Coconut boxing


Other products  



                                                            Photo credit: vietnamguidebook



Ben Tre coconut culture - Văn hóa dùa Bến Tre




















2 comments:

  1. Thank you for the useful information!
    Which bus company did you use from Saigon to Ben Tre and where does the bus start?

    ReplyDelete
  2. Hi Anonymous,

    1/ I didnt have to take bus to Ben Tre. I worked for TheSinhTourist company and I went to Ben Tre many times on package tour buses / or company private cars.

    You can join a 2-day 1 night Ben Tre - Can Tho tour which costs you ony about 45USD (inclusive: A/C bus, 1 night in 4-star hotel, English speaking tour guide, Meals...)

    Book online at www.thesinhtourist.vn
    Or come to its office at 246 De Tham street, district 1, Saigon (open till 10:00PM). Get ticket one day before


    2/ Bus
    Use Mai Linh bus/van at Mien Tay bus station
    Take a look at "Transport" which has detailed info: how to get to Mien Tay bus station, Mai Linh bus operator contact number...

    Im in Yangoon, Myanmar. And the internet speed here is very very slow! If you need any help, come to 24 - 26 Pho Duc Chinh street to see my sister, Ms Ngoc Dung. She speaks Frecnh and English.

    In Ben Tre, you can contact my friend, Mr Phuoc. He can arrange boat and everything for you: 0903 100 055

    Best regards,

    Ly Thanh Tung

    ReplyDelete

베트남 여행 일지 - Travel diary of a Seoul student in Vietnam: http://vnkrphrasebook.blogspot.com